ROCHAS | Alessandro Vigilante

Interview with Filep Motwary

Alessandro Vigilante took the helm at Rochas, and from his very first collection for the iconic French house, he proved he’s here to lead it back to the pinnacle—with the fierce momentum his name promises.

As the ever-timely Karl Lagerfeld once said, “Discretion is very good, but it’s not the only way to exist.” The ‘90s Anti-Fashion movement, which reigned supreme, was nothing but a rebellion against the glamorous excess of the ‘80s—a decade when designers drew inspiration purely from their own creativity. What ultimately betrayed ‘90s fashion was its commodification. In a marketplace ripe for expansion, brands were compelled by new owners to craft powerful, iconic images that would inspire consumers worldwide to invest in luxury. Designer influence within this brutal system of forced inventiveness began to wane. Those who survived mastered the equally demanding game of media, evolving their audience from local to global and generating immense profit for fashion conglomerates.

The term luxury gained unstoppable momentum at the dawn of the 21st century. Fashion giants, after acquiring brands teetering on bankruptcy, launched fierce battles for dominance—not just in clothing sales, but also handbags, fragrances, cosmetics, and logo-stamped merchandise. Two decades later, the competition is ruthless, yet the rules remain crystal clear: if you sell, you stay relevant. Fashion’s darling! Each time a new designer takes the reins of a storied brand, the inevitable question surfaces: how long will their reign last? Knowing the game and its rules, the players bring not only immense talent but undeniable courage.

The harsh realities of fashion do not diminish its allure, which fascinates me for many reasons: aesthetics, craftsmanship, history, and philosophy. My senses remain ever-alert to beauty. One of the most exquisite, masterfully crafted, and poetically inspired collections I’ve seen this year bears the signature of Italian designer Alessandro Vigilante for Rochas. As the sixth creative director to lead the French house, his debut runway in Paris unveiled opulent garments designed for spirited, feminine women tinged with a hint of vulnerability. His predecessors—Peter O’Brien, Olivier Theyskens, Marco Zanini, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, and Charles de Vilmorin—never quite reached the caliber necessary to keep the house at fashion’s forefront—perhaps with the exception of Theyskens.

Though his name is yet to reach widespread renown, Vigilante has dedicated nearly two decades to fashion. A top graduate of the IED Moda Lab, he was personally invited by Franca Sozzani, still a titan of the industry, to showcase his collection at Milan Fashion Week while still a student. Early in his career, he worked with Dolce & Gabbana, where his creations graced icons like Scarlett Johansson and Monica Bellucci.

He joined Gucci in Alessandro Michele’s very first year at the brand, later moved to Philosophy under Lorenzo Serafini, and then made his mark at The Attico. His eponymous label, founded just four years ago, draws deep inspiration from his 15 years of dance training.

“I’ve been dancing since I was seven. After finishing school, I was part of a dance company, touring the world, expressing social concerns and human emotions through movement. Though I always knew fashion was my destiny, it took me some time to take the leap. I was 23 when I enrolled in fashion school, and I was the oldest student in my class,” he shares over Zoom with a disarming smile, just a week after his highly acclaimed debut collection. The conversation naturally flows to one of my favorite themes: the human body.

“The body is the core of my work. My experience and study of classical and contemporary dance gave me what I believe is an essential perspective on the body—today, the very canvas for my designs. I express myself through fabrics, exploring its needs. When I start sketching, the body is always present, ‘overseeing’ my lines, which I strive to make meticulous,” he explains.

Now writing his own chapter in Rochas’ history, Vigilante admits he never imagined working for a Parisian maison. Yet the industry isn’t as prejudiced as it once was, when hiring his fellow Italian Gianfranco Ferré in the ’80s by Dior was a political gesture—a nod to Italian fashion’s acceptance by the French. “Isn’t it thrilling when the unexpected happens?” he asks. “For sixteen years, I translated the vision of other creative directors. Today, my voice has its own sound! As a former dancer, I weigh every creation through my understanding of the body. I don’t want to just make spectacular clothes; I want them to offer the wearer confidence and comfort. Contemporary dance embraces all body types and any message you want to convey—it’s essentially a language of communication. That’s what I want to achieve with my clothes.”

He confesses that one of his greatest joys at Rochas is access to the archives. “It’s a privilege to see up close revolutionary garments from their time, Marcel’s sketches, his exquisite taste in fabrics and fragrances… Every visit to the archive gives me chills,” he admits.

Marcel Rochas founded the house in 1925. He was the first to propose coats below the knee—and yes, skirts with pockets. Known for designs reflecting effortless elegance, he also created Rochas Femme, a fragrance still considered a classic today. This year marks the official rebirth of the house, with new offices on the Left Bank, a global distributor, a show during Paris Fashion Week, and possibly a Winter 2025 runway. Vigilante believes he shares Marcel Rochas’ keen insight into women’s desires.

“He married three times, all to strong women—one was Italian, Rina Rosselli. I feel through the women in his life, he developed a clear understanding of feminine taste. Today, the word ‘femininity’ is often equated with sexy. But sexy can easily slip into vulgarity. Femininity is neither—it’s a concept rooted in fashion’s golden days, and that’s enough for me. No, I’m not nostalgic. I feel very close to women; I enjoy observing them the way Avedon did through his photography—listening, not dominating the moment,” he confesses.

Though still early in his journey, he hopes to continue evolving. “Sometimes I want to be serious. But a touch of lightness and humor is essential. Collections must be honest statements. When I create a jacket, I want it to be functional and to offer something extra through details that make it unique. And I want to suggest how a Rochas jacket can be worn.”

This season’s collection embodies all of this. Titled Fairytales for Adults and inspired by a 1939 photograph by Italian architect Carlo Mollino that set the tone, it fulfilled Diana Vreeland’s legendary dictum: “The eye has to travel.” Slowly, it unfolded portraits of women. Set in a hibiscus-pink room—pink curtains, doors, seats, and carpet—it was the perfect tribute to womanhood. The Hôtel d’Evreux at Place Vendôme filled with models moving slowly one by one into the space, striking statuesque poses. Guests wandered among them, admiring the garments up close. Vigilante’s approach was fresh and indisputable. Tailoring was impeccable, fabrics precious, and silhouettes alternated between fluid and geometric, oversized shapes sculpting an intriguing outline. Colors ranged from canary yellow and daisy white to ice blue, emerald, orange, and champagne, while sparkling velvet, Art Deco lace, and quilted textures lovingly embraced the body, making it bloom. Crisp tweed and matte satin appeared alongside iridescent surfaces, and pointed kitten heels were adorned with crystal bows, 3D hydrangeas, and silver ribbons.

“I don’t want to be remembered after I’m gone. But through my work, I want to understand the world I live and breathe in—to open new windows. Without haste and free from the pressure of trends, which at the end of the day, have no substance,” he concludes.