Interview by Filep Motwary

Marine, welcome to Vogue Greece. My first question focuses more on your background, before launching your brand. Can you tell me more about how you connect with fashion, what was your starting point, how your studies in Belgium, the LVMH Prize in 2017, and the changes in the world formed the ways you work today?

My initial foray into the world of fashion was profoundly influenced by my mother. Growing up in a quaint, provincial town devoid of grandiose department stores, I found myself surrounded by remarkable second-hand flea markets. These modest yet captivating events offered a treasure trove of unique garments and accessories, fostering my appreciation for individuality and timeless style from a young age. Your teenage style has its importance and tells a lot about you. I was very inspired by the films I saw, my sports training outfits, music videos and of course my mother’s elegance.

What was your perception of the fashion industry before you got involved in it? In what ways did your upbringing manifest itself in your adult life?

From an outsider’s viewpoint, fashion appeared as an enigmatic realm characterized by freedom, creativity, and an almost magical transformation of textiles into art or theater. I viewed it as a world where imagination knew no bounds, where designers were akin to modern-day alchemists. Imagination at the service of our world transformation.
However, alongside this admiration, there was an undercurrent of skepticism. At a really young age I thought it did not make any sense. The portrayal of fashion in the media often highlighted its superficial aspects, leading to a perception of the industry as being driven by fleeting trends and commercialism. I was aware of the criticism it faced regarding issues like fast fashion, environmental impact, and the relentless pursuit of an often unrealistic ideal of beauty and stereotypes. This duality of fascination and critical awareness shaped my initial understanding of the fashion world. I was questioning myself quite often about it. I was worrying at the beginning that I could not tell the story I wanted, while making fashion.
My childhood environment nurtured a deep appreciation for inclusivity and sustainability, leading me to favor timeless, meaningful pieces and to support local artisans and sustainable brands. The necessity of making the most of limited resources fostered creativity and resourcefulness, teaching me to see potential in the unexpected and to embrace a DIY spirit. I learnt that from my grandfather who was a second-hand goods dealer, selecting daily pieces and making them look desirable through his process of cleaning and his taste for display. Community and the importance of personal connections, which I carry into my professional life through a focus on building meaningful relationships and prioritizing ethical practices, is at the core. As I often say my creativity process is a way for me to grow connections with people, and to work for a better future.

Would you say your creative journey has led to changes within yourself and your personality?

Naturally, founding a brand at the age of 23 and evolving from a team of three to a dynamic ensemble of over 75 has been a transformative journey. Taking our revenue from zero to its current stature necessitated honing my vision and refining my creative processes to seamlessly morph creativity into a thriving brand. Holding the dual roles of CEO and creative director has provided me with a multifaceted perspective, compelling me to balance creativity, finance, human resources, and the broader implications of my global vision on people’s lives. This holistic approach has not only influenced my professional trajectory but has also deeply impacted my personal life.
I strive to ensure that every decision, no matter how challenging, is meaningful. This journey has imparted significant maturity and growth. Leading an independent brand with nearly 80 team members is a formidable responsibility that demands innovation and bold risk-taking.
A crucial lesson from this experience is the necessity of collaboration. Convincing and connecting with people accelerates progress, making effective communication paramount. Our transformative ideas, achieved in just seven years, have only been possible by building a strong, cohesive community that supports our global vision.
The interactions and relationships I’ve fostered—be it with artists, factories, craftsmen, or diverse cultures worldwide—have broadened my perspective, making it more inclusive and expansive. This confluence of professional and personal realms is deeply intertwined, each continuously informing and enriching the other.
These interconnections are perhaps the most beautiful aspect of my journey, and it’s through these connections that our vision thrives.

 Ever since you finished school in Belgium, you present your work in Paris while you have embraced up-cycling, or regenerating as your destiny. What needs to change in how clothes are made and how we wear them? Can you discuss the significance of up cycling and sustainability?

Ever since I finished my studies in Belgium, presenting my work in Paris has allowed me to connect with a global audience and share my vision of fashion that prioritizes upcycling and sustainability. The fashion industry, as it currently stands, is at a critical juncture where significant changes are imperative in how clothes are made and how we wear them.
One of the most pressing changes needed is the shift towards sustainable production practices. The traditional fashion model, characterized by fast fashion and mass production, has led to significant environmental degradation and unethical labor practices. To counter this, there needs to be a widespread adoption of sustainable materials and processes. This includes using organic, recycled, or regenerative fibers that reduce environmental impact, as well as adopting technologies that minimize waste and energy consumption.
Upcycling, or the process of transforming waste materials into new, higher-value products, plays a pivotal role in the sustainability movement. By embracing upcycling, we can address the issue of textile waste, one of the largest contributors to environmental pollution. Upcycling not only conserves resources but also promotes creativity and innovation, allowing designers to craft unique, one-of-a-kind pieces from beautiful material that for most of them cannot be recreated anymore.

What is it that you try to express through your clothing? Can a dress be more than a commodity?

Through my clothing, I aim to express a multifaceted narrative that intertwines personal identity, cultural heritage, and a profound commitment to sustainability. Each piece I create is a canvas that tells a story, weaving together elements of history, emotion, and innovation. My work is an exploration of the interplay between tradition and modernity, seeking to celebrate the beauty of the past while pushing the boundaries of contemporary worlds. It’s a conversation.

How possible is it for the past to feed the future? What is the most challenging aspect of your role as a designer ?

The dual role of being both the designer and CEO of my company presents unique challenges, particularly as my designs are conceived within the constraints of economic realities. There exists a fundamental duality within the brand, straddling the line between haute couture and ready-to-wear collections.
The couture pieces, akin to artistic expressions, allow me to explore new perspectives, ignite conversations about the future, and push the boundaries of fashion and luxury, effectively communicating messages through each garment. This requires a keen sensitivity to global trends, intuition, fidelity to my vision, and the ability to propose meaningful perspectives.
Whereas the ready-to-wear segment of the collection is designed for everyday wear. Here, pricing becomes crucial, as consumers have grown accustomed to inexpensive clothing, often unaware of the true value of a well-crafted piece. My role involves educating the consumer on the intricacies of garment creation and the value embedded in each piece, which I believe enhances the brand’s relevance. It also allows me to remain accessible and observe how individuals embody the brand in their daily lives.
The delicate balance between fostering creativity and managing business demands is my foremost challenge, yet it is a source of continuous learning and growth.

You have split your collection into different lines. Could you explain how they differ from each other?

In the realm of Marine Serre Couture, sophistication intertwines with savoir-faire to craft pieces that exude elegance and refinement. Each creation is meticulously curated to epitomize timeless luxury and artisanal craftsmanship. From sumptuous gowns adorned with intricate detailing to impeccably tailored suits that command attention, Marine Serre Couture sets the standard for sartorial excellence.
Meanwhile, within the Marine Serre collection, a world of everyday utopia unfolds, where archetypal designs of sartorial silhouettes merge seamlessly with sophisticated workwear and innovative sportswear elements.
Borderline brings together all the essential layering pieces that symbolize the brand. With a body-conscious approach, these accessible pieces sheathe the body in the form of second skins or archetypal casual T-shirts. The most iconic piece of this line is the All Over Moon top which is present in the col- lections from the very beginning and continues to be adopted by talents and consumers from all over the world today.

It has already been 8 years since you launched your brand. What does it stand for today? How would you describe the ethos of your eponymous fashion label?

What I stand for has never changed. My core principles have remained steadfast, continually evolving to better our world. Every aspect of life serves as an impetus for positive change, influencing my approach to design, production, fabric selection, and the logistics of garment transport. I strive for garments to endure, remaining relevant and meaningful over time.
Alongside my commitment to sustainability, I am renowned for my inclusive vision of fashion. Human-centered values infuse my team dynamics, company structure, and the diversity seen in our show castings and campaigns. My collections appeal to a broad audience, challenging traditional beauty norms and celebrating a variety of body types and identities. This inclusivity is evident not only in my model selections but also in the versatility of my designs. For instance, the Sempre Legati collection featured over 20 nationalities and various body types. My casting always embodies a tribe ethos with people of all ages, and even including children, dogs, nature. This inclusive spirit has always been a natural part of my approach.
These principles form the two pillars of my label, grounding its relevance. The third aspect centers on harnessing new creativity and ideas for the future. I value conversations that extend beyond fashion, fostering evolution. I co-authored a book with anthropologist Marc Abeles. I collaborate every season with Pierre Rousseau on show music. I directed films with Sacha Barbin and Ryan Doubiago. Additionally. I design furniture, embracing a multidisciplinary approach to creativity. We transcend being merely a fashion house, embodying a lifestyle and way of thinking. Engaging with various artists and disciplines, we cultivate a dialogue that drives continuous growth and innovation. I aim to merge boundaries between life and art.

What is the inspiration behind the FE24 collection? What was your mood board about? Somewhere you mentioned that “you just want to be at the service of women to design a collection for them that is both something daily but also graceful.” Do you think that fashion lacks these elements today?

I aimed to create a collection rooted in simplicity. My goal was to reintegrate fashion into daily life, with a focus on ready-to-wear pieces, and back to basics in a way, although there were six couture looks included.
I believe that fashion has become detached from our everyday experiences. While it thrives online, it often feels inaccessible, as if dressing up has vanished from our daily routines. I sought to revive this connection.
The show’s setting—a flower shop, a bar, a café, a pizza place—was designed to question the relevance of fashion in our everyday lives and explore how it can still bring us joy.
This collection, in particular, is dedicated to women who ride bikes, run, carry their children, and take the bus and I wanted them to do all this with grace, joy and comfort. This collection is a way to empower them.

How would you describe our period, in terms of aesthetics and theory?

I would say that there is an intricate interplay of sustainability, inclusivity, technological advancement, and social consciousness.
Aesthetically, we are in an era where the lines between couture and ready-to-wear blur, emphasizing a seamless blend of high fashion and everyday practicality. This period celebrates hybridity, where recycled and upcycled materials coexist with innovative textiles, and traditional craftsmanship merges with futuristic design. Nostalgia is reimagined through a contemporary lens, underscored by an urgent call for environmental responsibility.
Theoretically, our time is marked by a critical reassessment of fashion’s role in society. It transcends mere aesthetics to become a powerful medium for commentary on pressing social issues. Fashion today is a platform for addressing and challenging racism, advocating for feminism, and promoting diversity and inclusion. It tells stories that reflect a multitude of identities and experiences, fostering a sense of community and belonging.
Ultimately, I see our era as a dynamic and transformative phase, where aesthetics and theory are profoundly interconnected. Creativity is also about pushing the boundaries in terms of social impact, community building, and global consciousness. This is a time for fashion to evolve into a more inclusive, sustainable, and socially engaged practice.

What does it mean to be brave with FASHION?

It involves cultivating confidence in your fashion choices, wearing what makes you feel empowered and comfortable, regardless of trends or societal expectations.

Being brave in fashion also champions diversity and inclusivity, celebrating different styles, cultural influences, and body types. It’s about experimenting fearlessly, using fashion as a canvas for self-expression and evolution, and advocating for authenticity and creativity in every outfit you wear. Ultimately, being brave with fashion is a powerful statement of self-confidence and a celebration of the joy and freedom that fashion can bring.

 It must be quite inspiring to see people making your clothes part of their own identity. Especially your Islamic logo has garnered a cult!

The Moon logo is not only Islamic. It is universal. It’s one of the oldest symbols in the world.
The moon motif emerged within my inaugural collection as a symbolic beacon of transformation and regeneration, resonating deeply as a response to the tragic violence of terrorist attacks in France (2015) and Belgium (2016). It served as a guiding light for my collection Radical call for Love. During that tumultuous period, crafting garments seemed futile amidst a world in turmoil. However, the moon became more than a symbol; it infused purpose into my creative endeavors, imbuing each design with a powerful narrative of resilience and hope amidst adversity.
The crescent moon symbolizes the cycle of renewal and the idea that beauty can arise from unexpected places. Beyond its environmental message, the moon logo also carries cultural and spiritual significance. It evokes notions of mysticism and femininity, drawing on the moon’s association with cycles, intuition, and the feminine divine across various cultures throughout history. This multifaceted symbolism resonates deeply with my exploration of identity, technology, and the relationship between humans and nature.

Do you think anything interesting is happening on the streets today in terms of fashion, as it has become so urban?

Street fashion today thrives as a vibrant reflection of urban culture, blending diverse influences from subcultures, music scenes, art movements, and digital realms. It’s characterized by its accessibility and democratic nature, welcoming anyone to express their style creatively.

This grassroots movement fosters constant innovation and experimentation, with trends emerging fluidly from local communities and global digital spaces. Street fashion’s influence on high fashion is profound. I often say that my biggest inspiration is found in the moments where I wait for the bus and just look at people in the streets. Trends always come from the streets.

Moreover, there’s a rising emphasis on sustainability within street fashion, encompassing upcycling, thrifted finds, and DIY customization, mirroring broader societal shifts towards conscious consumerism. Social media plays a pivotal role, amplifying street style influencers and disseminating trends globally, making street fashion an influential and dynamic force shaping contemporary fashion narratives.

Allow me to ask, what is your biggest struggle as Marine, the person and why? How constant is it in your life?

On a personal level, balancing the demands of my work towards my personal life, as well as balancing the demands of my creativity with the responsibilities of running a sustainable fashion brand, both present ongoing challenges. As a designer, I constantly strive to innovate and push boundaries while staying true to my commitment to ecological consciousness and ethical production practices. This involves making difficult decisions about material sourcing, production methods, and the lifecycle of my designs—all while ensuring that each collection aligns with my values of sustainability and inclusivity.
Beyond the professional sphere, I am deeply invested in broader social and environmental issues. The urgency of climate change and social justice drives me to use my platform to raise awareness and inspire meaningful action. However, navigating the complexities of systemic challenges and effecting tangible change requires perseverance and collaboration with like-minded individuals and organizations.
Ultimately, my biggest struggle is maintaining integrity and authenticity in all facets of my work—balancing creativity with sustainability, innovation with responsibility, and advocacy with action. This struggle is not just a passing phase but a fundamental aspect of my journey as Marine Serre, shaping my decisions, influencing my designs, and guiding my efforts to make a positive impact in the fashion industry and beyond.

What is your most ambitious project still to accomplish and what is perhaps the most important quality a fashion designer can have?

My most ambitious project still to accomplish is to pioneer a truly circular fashion economy within my brand. This involves not only continuing to innovate with sustainable materials and production processes but also rethinking the entire lifecycle of fashion garments—from design and manufacturing to consumption and disposal. I aim to create a closed-loop system where every piece produced by Marine Serre can be recycled, upcycled, or biodegraded without compromising on style or quality. This project is ambitious because it requires collaboration across the industry, from suppliers to consumers, and a radical shift in how fashion is perceived and consumed.

Regarding the most important quality a fashion designer can have, I believe it is a relentless commitment to authenticity. Authenticity means staying true to one’s vision, values, and creative voice amidst external pressures and trends. Looking for a meaning in everything you make. It involves having a clear sense of purpose and integrity in every design decision, from concept development to final production. Authenticity allows a designer to create meaningful connections with their audience, foster trust and loyalty, and contribute to positive change within the fashion industry. It’s not just about creating beautiful garments but also about embodying and promoting values that resonate with consumers and inspire a future that makes more sense.