" A faceless brand that’s launched into stockists international inspired by Russian youth and their eclectic approach to re-approprating sports and casual wear from across the decades as availability of new season pieces are limited in rural Russia and eastern Europe.
It takes an “all about the product” perspective on brand rather than the “all about the designer” angle that’s been so popular recently."
Regeneration. The new Marni collection lands a ponderous gaze on the past, whilst bringing it firmly to the present. The Museo Marino Marini, where the show takes place, is a seamless juxtaposition of existing elements and new architectural interventions, so is the collection. Neat shapes charge up in the choice of tactile materials, in the bold play of colors and textures, suggesting an idea of easy elegance.
Fur, knit and sturdy tailoring toy with sophisticated quirks of personality. Zip-up tunic tops layered on printed shirts and skinny sky trousers suggest dynamism. Collarless coats have the ease of a cardigan and the intimacy of a robe, while double-breasted styles have a welcoming roominess.
Formality is approached from a slightly off-kilter angle: mismatched checks, broken suits, plain dress shirts paired with knitted ties. Jackets are compact, with a high buttoning, while trousers flare at the hem, or fall straight. The inside of the garments and their details are as studied and surprising as the outside: colorful pocket linings, contrast taping, hidden buttoning.
Fur is a strong feature in many ways throughout the collection. Alpaca on outerwear, long sheepskin gilets closed by snaps worn on top of suits, bonded goat cardigan coats, astrakhan and bleached alpaca scarves.
Knits are boxy and tactile, with a home-spun quality.
The color palette is earthy and deep: tones of brown, blue, grey, black are accented with flashes of red, yellow, flesh. Prints are painterly blossoms. Fabrics are precious and firm, with a stress on textures: twisted flannel, herringbone tweed, linen-wool, double faced angora cashmere, wool gabardine, bonded suede.
The progressive tone of the collection carries on in the accessories. Sturdy zip-up boots and derbies have contrast "mended" heels, sliced rubber toe caps give sneakers an old-school feel. Goat fur backpacks and wool apron bags match the looks.
Emerging talent Asaf Ganot showcases his eponymous line, fusing the elegance of menswear with innovative technologies and construction.
Drawing inspiration from his experience as an athlete and his inherent exposure to the textile industry, Asaf Ganot brings movement and functionality to the core of his sophisticated menswear collection. Detail and finish are in high-focus, creating a collection of discreet luxury, that doesn’t mind rolling up its sleeves.
When asked who is the Asaf Ganot man, he says “I think a lot about the Daniel Craig version of James Bond; guys with edge but with class. Confident but never arrogant.”
"The magic is in the balance of all facets of the garment - from the yarn, the tension of the sweater construction, and finally the wax treatment to create the perfect balance and masculine aesthetic. My favourite part is that with this artisan style/element each piece becomes unique because the treatment absorbs and reacts with the yarn differently; the cable has different 3D dimensions and textures so the treatment hits it differently every time. The tension of the yarn, that accounts for the elasticity of the sweater needs to be perfect for the tone on tone effect to be at its best. "
Metallic sweater: The perfect balance of paint, dryer, and oven baked time to achieve the proper strength and height of the rib for the right tone on tone effect of the soft black rib against the shinier metallic black yarn.
Cable wax sweater: a very comfortable and high -end merino wool turtleneck where treatment is used only on the cable texture to give it a really powerful touch. Fun touches on the neck and its reverse.
Tranoi (stand 21, 2nd floor) from January 22nd till January 24th, 2015.
Paris College of Art just announced that Hervé Léger Leroux will preside the jury of their 2015 Fashion Show. In Fall 2014, Hervé Léger Leroux spoke to the students of Paris College of Art about being a fashion designer, and what it takes to succeed. Hervé shared many anecdotes from his career and gave advice to our students about entering the design world and building a reputation as a designer.
For Pitti Uomo #87, Polimoda will be presenting one of its latest talents: from 13 to 16 January, the Villa Favard headquarters will be hosting the new SELF MADE collection by young Florentine designer, Gianfranco Villegas. A preview of fall/winter 15/16, entitled You’re My Hero: a capsule collection of unique pieces, all completely made by hand in Tuscany. The young fashion designers who have studied at Polimoda continue to achieve great things and reap successes in increasing numbers. Creativity, personality, passion, technical expertise, a good dose of courage, and an enterprising spirit are characteristics that they all share: these same elements are a distinguishing feature of the Fashion Design course directed by Patrick De Muynck, always one of the most in demand, attended courses in the programme at Polimoda. Gianfranco Villegas is the fifth prodigious designer selected by POLIMODATALENT, the launch platform dedicated to promising ex-students. A reflection of developments in fashion, a continuous scouting project and a wager on the future.
ABOUT GIANFRANCO VILLEGAS
Born in Florence of Philippine parents in 1990, he lived with his mother in a complicated situation which has shaped his life and his character. He began working at the age of 14 to satisfy his great passion for fashion, looking to Raf Simons with enthusiasm. He graduated from Polimoda in 2013 and began to express his dreams, his strong feelings, in his BA collection, inspired by his origins, by Italian and Philippine culture, mixing together luxury materials with very technical materials and the artisan materials of the Philippines. In January 2012, his first-year knitwear project included a particular pair of coloured knit leggings that was selected by Marc Ascoli. Also in 2012, he began working with the talented Erik Bjerkesjo, another graduate designer from Polimoda and first POLIMODATALENT. In April 2014 he took part in the "Fashion Culture" show, where he held a catwalk show for his collection at London Fashion Week. Having finished his studies, after a period of experience at Cedric Jacquemyn in Antwerp, he was chosen to train at Damir Doma in Paris. Due to his heightened sensitivity, which also comes through when he edits images and videos, the iconic shots from his collections have already been published in internationally renowned magazines. SELF MADE by Gianfranco Villegas is on sale online on Not Just a Label, and from next summer on, it will also be available in Tokyo, in the "Addition Adelaide" store.
YOU’RE MY HERO | FW 15/16
A collection evoking a sense of protection, with boldly oversized volumes, where the cuts and patterns are reminiscent of an embrace. The lines and colours are soft, pure and romantic. Words and phrases embroidered on garments reflecting the romantic theme, together with quotes linked to artists like Yoon Ji Seon, Antony Micallef, Muntean Rosenblum and from songs by Tupac Shakur. In his creations, Gianfranco Villegas always seeks to experiment: streetwear pieces like bomber jackets and macs are reworked and inserted into a more sartorial context using fine materials like cashmere, leather and pure new wool. And vice versa, he transforms sartorial garments, like long overcoats, using bolder cuts with a streetwear feel. His style is also dominated by some recurring features, such as visible zips and rough cuts. A collection that is deeply influenced by personal feeling, especially concerning one of his reference points: his personal hero, his mother.
POLIMODATALENT EXHIBITION #5 Villa Favard / Via Curtatone 1, Florence
The Founder & General Director of Hyeres Festival, Mr Jean-Pierre Blanc, invites you to celebrate it's 30th edition at the Villa Noailles, in Hyères in April 2015.
The occasion of this anniversary is a moment to see you again and share memories of these last 30 years since the birth of the Festival.
30 years dedicated to support young fashion designers and emerging photographers while showing the works of major artists from both fields; and to enjoy a good time with you. The Villa Noailles, Hyères, invites you to participate to the website made especially for the Festival, a web-platform for pictures, videos, sketches and texts, sent by all of you. (We need images of exhibitions, openings, shows, parties, montage, people...)
Please send your high resolution files via www.wetransfer.com before January 31 to email@example.com with a validation for loan of the original documents to the villa Noailles.
They could be selected and shown in our special Anniversary exhibition ! Save the date ! We hope to see you in Hyères from April 23 to 27, 2015. For the first time, the opening ceremony will be held on Thursday, April 23rd 2015.
Reserve your travel and accommodation as soon as possible.
Dear Filep and iDEALS, throughout the year fashion exhibitions dominated Dutch museums, yet it seems that The Future of Fashion is Now' (TFOFIN) at Museum Boijmans van Beuningen is perhaps the most interesting of them all. With its innovative content and extensive public programme with symposiums, workshops and events, TFOFIN takes the viewer to a higher ground of dynamic world of the fashion design.
THOFIN offers a broader view on the future of fashion with work of visionary designers including Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan and Iris van Herpen. Furthermore the exhibition is a platform for new generation of designers that are questioning the fashion system with their groundbreaking and innovative approach to fashion design.
Among the new designers one can find work of Rejina Pyo, Craig Green, Ana Rajvevic and Jennifer Gadient. These designers are coming up with innovative solutions at the cutting edge of fashion and art. Sustainability, futuristic technologies and the social value of clothes are themes with which these designers address the fashion of the future.
Six fashion designers made new work exclusively for the exhibition, enabled by the Han Nefkens Fashion on the Edge Award. The working process of these commissions is on view on the new online platform www.futureoffashion.nl.
TFOFIN is staged based on four topics; Materiality and Experience, The (Re)definition of the Human Figure, New Values and New Stories, Fashion Activism: Community and Politics.
The Future of Fashion is Now exhibition is on display from 11 October 2014 to 18 January 2015 at the Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen (Rotterdam, the Netherlands).