Text : Dan Thawley. Film directed by Antoine Asseraf, a PREMICES FILMS production.
The French fashion curator and critic Olivier Saillard opened the Comme des Garçons “White Drama” exhibition on Wednesday night at the Cité de la Mode et du Design across the Seine, in the temporary digs of the Musée Galliera.
Showcasing the Spring Summer 2012 collection in its entirety, the all-white installation is divided into six chapters, each featuring a series of silhouettes encased in an inflatable plastic dome. First shown during Paris Fashion Week on October 1st 2011, the collection follows a feminine evolution through the stages of life – from birth, through marriage, towards death – all in shades of white picked out in delicate leavers lace, silk satin, wool gabardine and floral embroideries. Certain styles featured tied sleeves and covered veils, evoking thoughts of strait-jackets and religious garb.
The few moments of contrast arrive as inflated black rubber headpieces by the London set designer Gary Card, and hand-painted graffiti by the Japanese artist Oyama Enrico Isamu. The museum’s decision to exhibit a single current collection is a testament to the progressive nature of Rei Kawakubo’s work and its relevance and influence on fashion today.
“The collection is a rallying point between archaism and a vision of the future, a stand for the imaginary, where consideration of the garment, the noblest of all, is the subject.” – Olivier Saillard White Drama at Cité de la Mode et du Design 34, Quai d’Austerlitz – Paris 75013 runs from April 13th until October 7th 2012.
Dear iDEALS, in the i FABRIC. EUROPEAN TALENT exhibition, Audax Textielmuseum Tilburg presents a young generation of highly promising designers from Europe who are active in the fields of fashion, interior textiles and design. But what does the actual practice that awaits them involve? To answer this question, the Textielmuseum commissioned the young filmmaker Marleine van der Werf to produce video portraits of experienced players in the field. The portraits of the Belgian fashion designer Walter Van Beirendonck, the British artist Lucy Orta, and Anne Højgaard Jørgensen, artistic director of the Danish textile producer Kvadrat, provide insight into their work and their views on design education.
Daphne Guinness: Undressed Director Brennan Stasiewicz Captures Fashion’s Enigma At Home and On Display
"Documentary filmmaker Brennan Stasiewicz infiltrates the cosseted world of Daphne Guinness in Daphne’s Window. Featuring intimate footage of the icon at her Fifth Avenue apartment, the short follows the eccentric fashion patron and socialite as she prepares for her recent installation in the windows of Barneys New York.
The storefront showcased her collection of pieces by designer Lee Alexander McQueen and a selection from the archive of fashion editor Isabella Blow, which Guinness purchased in its entirety last year. The display culminated in a performance art piece in which Guinness dressed for the Met ball in one of the flagship’s windows, modeling a lilac feathered gown designed by McQueen’s Sarah Burton. “She appears to me as someone always in a window,” says Stasiewicz. “Someone you can approach and see, but you remain on the other side.” This year brings a multitude of projects for the heiress: her sculptural armored glove collaboration with jeweler Shaun Leane (pictured in today’s film) will be exhibited by Jay Jopling in a private viewing in London later this month; and in September a retrospective at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology will pay homage to her style. “Daphne is someone to take pleasure in, and in many ways, someone who incites moments of wonder,” says Stasiewicz."
Rodarte: States of Matter is the first West Coast solo exhibition of the work of fashion and costume designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte. In this video, Kate and Laura talk about the stories that have inspired their collections and the physical processes their materials go through. This intimate look at more than 20 pieces from Rodarte’s Spring 2010, Fall 2010, and Fall 2008 runway collections, as well as original ballet costumes designed by Kate and Laura Mulleavy from Rodarte for the feature film Black Swan, was directed by Felipe Lima, with original music by No Age.