Dear iDEALS, Manuela Arcari explores a natural dimension with the Ter et Bantine 2013 resort collection.
She does so with the proclivity for sophisticated rawness that characterizes her work, building a modular wardrobe that is full of tension. The dialogue between line and surface creates an unstable, hence dynamic, balance: simultaneous motifs contradict the aplomb of jackets and skirts; progressing patterns create antithetic paths for the eye; graphic motifs introduce an element of controlled distortion. The silhouette is a sum of parts, each one with its own energy: objects made to be worn, not contemplated.
Globetrotting in signs: both rough and incisive. Abstraction that becomes organic. Tactile surfaces and hypnotic prints put in short-circuit with lines that are pure in an assertive, architectural way. On the background, as ever, a taste for perfect imperfection. The collection is an eclectic repertoire of possibilities, resulting from a rigorous editing process.
The basic elements, intended to be assembled in individual ways, are exact jackets, essential tops, narrow pants, waisted dresses, blousons and dusters. Touch and sight mingle one with the other. Intense materials such as linen, hemp, jute, silk swarm in prints that create immaterial textures.
The palette is organic: sand, rust, grey, brick red with soft accents of yellow, orange, aqua. Accessories include cork-wedged sandals, braided leather flat sandals, shoes with a plexiglass heel. Rope belts highlight the waist. The quest for organic abstraction translates into graphic spontaneity.
Dear iDEALS, a breath of freshness comes all the way from Milan's fashion week.
With a wonderful cast, Ter et Bantine's show revealed a casual, modern and concise woman "as the anti-uniform of a revolt" for Autumn/Winter 2012/2013.
More daring than any other previous collection, Manuela Arcari leaves day-to-day items behind to create a new sihlouette outline, a wardrobe packed with eccentric elements designed to have a powerful noir impact. Military , geometrical expansions and a Gothic repertoire are recurrent traits that multiply and add on to generate the desired dramatic silhouettes.
The texture imaginable, namely leather, suede, row wool, bristly synthetics with wet-effect highlights, such as animal skin and satin weave. The hi-tech style provides them with an opportunity for juxtaposition.
Furs, artful embroidery on ripped fabrics and hypnotic patterns flock-printed on cloth are arranged as recuperated inserts of skilled tailoring on a flawless backdrop. Ample coats and skirt suits find their counterparts in clear cut dresses and tops that stand out against male trousers.
Ter et Bantine present a film by Stefano Galuzzi, Starring Katlin Aas and Styled by Tanya Jones, capturing the essence of the season set by Manuela Arcari all about the feeling of duality. Manuela states "Duality is inside women. This is one of the reasons women are so fascinating. They can equally show their feminine and masculine side all at once, and this creates a feeling of disorientation, which basically is the mood of this short movie"
Dear iDEALS, Ter Et Bantine's vision of femininity is slightly off balance, with a base note of poetic pragmatism along with a precise view of womanhood.
The collection is a repertoire of possibilities and discusses within design expressions and modular feelings. With variety of choices,Manuella Arcari offers elegant dresses, sophisticated tops, coats that are adamantine in shape and outline.
A team of architectonical blueprints, they charge up in the contraposition of different fabrics: matte and shiny, fluid and firm, compact and liquid are arranged in tactile and visual textures with a sense of constructivism.
The underlying romanticism becomes dry.
The accent is put on construction, and turns clothes into objects of design, made of a sum of parts but thought to be worn, not just contemplated.
Control and abandonment alternate and mix, creating a sense of off-kilter realism.
Arcari opts for the conciseness that has always characterized her work: she plays with the weight of fabrics, with their texture, which sometimes is hard, others a bit off-kilter; she uses decisive cuts, hiding frivolity with shy bashfulness.