Such a dynamic collection with all the ingredients I love: curves, 80's outilines, sharpness in everything, leather, chiffon, fur, lurex and of course the music of John Carpenter and Nino Rota See more of my photos on Vogue.fr
FilepMotwary: How did you form the Allude heroine/the woman you dress?
AndreaKarg: I started to make sensual, more sexy cashmere knits for myself as I loved the material but couldn't find anything which I really liked. A modern contemporary look -this was my starting point and as the success of the brand proofs- I wasn't the only one looking for this specific Allude look
FM: And who is this woman?
AK: A luxurious and details loving woman
FM: Andrea, do you feel fashion is changing? To which direction?
AK: There is no more "dictatorship" of fashion, which results in more freedom, but that doesn`t make it necessarily more easy. What you definitely need is style and attitude to find your look.
FM: What is the most important thing a designer must never forget?
AK: You get onto the women`s skin- you cannot get closer....which is a gift but results into a huge responsibility.
(At the end of the day fashion are clothes that have to cover and give them security and self confidence)
FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion. How does really longevity mean in this business?
AK: The flexibility and the intense sense of feeling the "zeitgeist". To have the ability of reacting to the community and to give them hold through clothes.
FM: And how different are women compared to men?
AK: In fashion? Women are much more experimental and free to chance looks each season. they don't feel "married" to one look, women loves to play different roles... At the end this is what men love about women. (Smiles)
FM: What is romance for you?
FM: What is your SS13 collection about, the inspiration lets say. How did you start designing it, what was your research about?
AK: Unlimited Spaces – a hymn to women!
I wanted to approach this season freely and with no restrictions: only a fascination with the color blue with its mystic associations was significant in developing the collection. Not just blue like the ocean to represent the element of water, but blue like the universe with its unlimited space – as unlimited as the female being and the female soul! It’s a hymn to women that symbolizes the infinite nature of life.
Reflections of the four elements play a key role in the collection: light and shimmer effects in addition to the color white are dedicated to the element of air. This is cleverly reflected in the knit, which is airy, transparent and permeable.
FM: Can other factors, for example music, become part of the collection? What else?
AK: I played with contrasts and my love of incongruities: soft cashmere is combined with strong lines, designed styles meet natural flows. Everything follows the beat of the Chemical Brothers, whose electronic music underlines the mysticism of this summer at Allude.
FM:You’ve deviated from a monochrome palette for your S/S 13 collection. Tell us about your experiments with color this season. There is a lot of color blocking, also pantsuits?
The collection is ‘earthed’ with khaki to represent the element of earth. Flamboyant effects are created by red to symbolize the element of fire and straight line of electric blue in the collection is the unlimited sky. Combined together, the collection not only forms a harmonious symphony of silhouettes, materials and colours, but also delivers a well-rounded energetic concept by incorporating the archaic power of the four elements.
FM:How do you think fashion responds to the financial crisis-if there is one? Is this the moment of great creativity?
AK: We are a part of the luxury industry, which seams to be non-vulnerable, but also here the customers are looking for real values, for sustainability and a true value for what they purchase. the time is over for prices which are not comprehensible. creativity is the base of all
FM: How does your background, your roots reflect in what you do?
AK: My motto: what you do not want others do to you, you shouldn`t do to them
FM:What is next for Allude?
AK: For Allude I created the first cashmere sneaker.....more to come very soon.
Allude is represented by TOTEM. All photos backstage and catwalk by Olivier Claisse. Thank you Elisa Palmer
After gaining invaluable experience and savoir-faire in the atelier of Balenciaga and the Maison Martin Margiela between 2007 and 2010, Steffie Christiaens established her Paris studio to pursue a conceptual design process through womens and mens ready-to-wear collections. Prior to this, Steffie completed fashion design studies at the IFM in Paris and the esteemed Arnhem Academy in the Netherlands. Upon graduating the IFM in 2009, Steffie was selected as a finalist in the prestigious Hyères festival in the south of France.