All photos by Jean Luc Dupont / SYSTEME D©
Friday evening, the 43 edition of ModaLisboa – Lisboa Fashion Week Legacy edition opened with Sangue Novo show. Sangue Novo (meaning: New Blood) is a platform for emerging Portuguese designers.
Among ten selected designers FASHIONCLASH Festival 2014 participant Andrea Lazzari of Plùs Que Ma Vie label has been chosen to show his collection within this collective show. On behalf of FASHIONCLASH I had to choose one designer and give out FASHIONCLASH / ModaLisboa award, namely award the designer with participation at FASHIONCLASH Festival 2015.
First I met all designers backstage and got a closer look to their work. Following the runway presentation I had the challenge to choose just one designer out of a severe selection of nine promising designers.
Sangue Novo is a very fertile opportunity for new designers in Portugal and one of the highlights of ModaLisboa. Sangue Novo / ModaLisboa SS2015 participants: Olga Noronha, Catarina Oliveira, Banda, Rua 148, Inês Duvale, Juliana Cunha, Nair Xavier, Cristina Real, Plùs Que Ma Vìe by Andrea Lazzari and Joaquim Correia.
Taisuke Araki was born in 1980 at Kamakura. He graduated from the Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo and the AICP in Paris, and has worked with famous creators in France for the last few years.
He has recently created his own collection for women as an independent Fashion designer in Paris. He creates all prototypes with his hands, out of fabrics from France, Italy, Japan and the expertise of French craftsmen.
To welcome us in his creative universe, Taisuke Araki is asked to answer the following live questionnaire at a one-to-one meeting around a table in a flat in Paris.
The past: Your relationship with Fashion.
My dream has always been the same. Contribution. I want to contribute. Even if I have always loved clothes, I didn't know that clothes is my own way to follow. Like everyone, I was thinking what I would like to do as a profession for life, and I thought that I wanted to become a scientist or a physician, something which is fundamental for the human. So I decided to follow the path of a scientist by studying science, but I was not feeling comfortable with it. At that point one of my best friends, who is a scientist, asked me why did I not choose the path of garments, as my lifetime profession.
Once she said that to me, I took the decision. But in reality it had already been like that, I just wasn't aware of it. After that I worked in different occupations to finance my studies, and I got academic training in Fabrication, Textiles and Design at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo.
From Tokyo to Paris, inside the ateliers of Fashion houses.
I first had formal training in Paris; it is important to have a recognised diploma in France. The only school which is international and academic in pattern-cutting was the AICP, which I completed before joining again the profession of Fashion. I have worked with the couturier Gustavolins for more than two years. I then joined the ateliers of Chloe International and Sonia Rykiel.
Then I decided to create my own collection in Paris.
To be honest if I was to think about my career, I would have continued working with famous creators. But I somehow felt that existing Fashion does not look deep enough into the woman, the man, the child, the human. And it is not possible to ignore anything out of the human in design. Our work is making clothes for humans. Clothes are the nearest things to our bodies and souls. When we wear clothes, we can feel their process of getting born, what they have been through creation, and we evolve inside them ourselves. It is a birth of life because they are alive themselves. And creating should be done with love, because Love is Creation.
Revelation moment for creating an independent brand, or gradual decision through experience and time?
I was searching within my whole existence, the one thing that would make most sense to put into action. It is maybe common that we do not necessarily think about other people, as we need to think so much about ourselves; but for me it is very important to think about the others. I started my own collection by eliminating my ego to the minimum. I try to pass over my ego in order to be myself and to access the sacred place, which exists in all of us, where our spirits are pure.
What is your own offering to the human through Fashion design? Are your statements relevant to today's social context?
I know that humans are not perfect. In the industry of Fashion, we hold a mentality of the need to make money, by reducing material waste and costs, because we need to sell our products with the lowest cost of production. Of course all members of this industry operate very differently to achieve that, according to their ideal of quality. But at the end clothes are not comfortable. In this way we cannot respect the body and the movements. Clothes are either too tight, or too vast; according to time periods. We always use the mannequin as a base to create clothes; but there's no point doing that, the human body is different than the mannequin and it moves.
Through knowledge, technique and respect we can make humans more beautiful. We need to be more comfortable in our bodies and also in our mentalities. Clothes have actually a lot of influence to the sentiments.
Where do your inspirations come from and how you translate your ideas into garments?
Everything comes from the air, from the universe, from things. I just receive these messages with my feelings; I try to feel what we want and we need to have. It's not me who designs; it's you and us who design. I feel and gaze the feelings and I design whatever you or we want, whatever we need.
How do you translate all these things you receive into garments?
We all receive messages from the universe; the transmission is what changes. My aim is to translate what I receive into garments, without my ego intervening. I engage into translating reality into the garments. I touch the material, the prototype, and my hands instinctively go in the way they should. I do not feel that I decide or dominate, I follow the material, the shape, the prototype construction as the nature of things wish.
Fabrics and techniques of your garments.
The fabrics I use for my own collection are natural/ecological and noble, like cashmere, organza, silk. The only exception is silk polyamide, which is never used in areas of direct contact with the skin, and is only used to give light and lightness where needed.
Lining and finishings are very important to me. I opt to maximise quality in the relationship between the body and the garment, through material, technique, and the touch. I create with my hands and respect the movement of the woman through the pattern-cutting process. I observe life, the body, the movements and I incorporate them in the form and the utility of garments.
Who upon your opinion would be the people to embrace the spirit of your collection and universe?
Everyone. But it takes time. I imagined and realised a collection and I wish to put my garments in availability at places that everyone knows and approaches, because I want to offer my creations to everyone.
Taisuke Araki belongs to the past, the present or the future?
We have always been there. In the past, the present and the future. But I guess I belong mostly to the future; because it's more positive, we have the possibility to dream and change things. Everything gets better as time passes by; we have possibilities to decide and change, there is a margin to reform things.
First collection named by the greek word: Genesis. You come from Japan, you have lived abroad, and you have been in Paris a while now. The relationship between your creations and any cultures?
I want to respect all cultures; there are no borders in real life, like on maps. It's an ideology. Everyone is connected by happiness. But harmony is what is missing. Even within us there is no harmony. I would like to represent the harmony of life in my creations.
Harmony; it's what we really need. We can dance with the air, the light, the water. It's a pity to be alone, everyone has his role, his precious work, and even things or people, which don't please us, have an important role, so we need them, we need everyone and everything. Collective Harmony. My role and my aim is for the woman to blossom in her life with clothes she loves.
Wishing you all the very best for the fulfilment of your fashion and life happiness.
Further than the Amsterdam Fashion Week, there were also various fashion events taking place throughout the city. This year's ArtEZ Generation 15 graduates, presented their work at Felix & Foam in the imposing Felix Meritis building.
Designers Christina Braun, Sonia Aïssaoui, Yiyu Chen, Verena Schepperheyn were given the opportunity to show their work within an intimate setting. Industry professionals like Lucas Ossendrijver and Hector Castro where invited for a dialogue with the designers.
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Issey Miyake presented an uncomplicated collections mixed with with sporty and elegant looks. Creative director of the Issey Miyake house, Yusuke Takahashi, drew inspiration from nature using fruits and deep-sea creatures as print.
It looked like the audience was gathered around a pier that served as a runway. This wooden white boardwalk runway and the sunny day in Paris gave the presentation a tropical-clique feel. Striking where the deep-sea blue looks and pieces with large fruit prints.
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Walter van Beirendonck ss 2015 collection, entitled 'WHAMBAM' was inspired by the lack of privacy we are having in this fast-moving society and the contradiction between paradise and the dark side of the world. Creating contradictions and addressing heavy issues with humor is exactly what Walter does and what came out strong in the presentation.
The collection featured stunning brocade jacquard jackets and bright colors which gave it an overall rich, exotic and fresh feel. For this collection he cooperated with many creatives, paintings are by Scooter LaForge, headpieces are designed by Jacques Blankwater, Charlie le Mindu was responsible for hair...
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On Saturday June 21st students from the Textile & Fashion department at the Royal Academy of Art, The Hague (KABK) presented a spectacular Fashion Show in which they showcased their contemporary and innovative vision on fashion design to a wide public. The shows took place at 7PM and 9.30PM in the Atrium of The Hague City Hall. The KABK was founded in 1682 and is renowned for its focus on innovation, research and experiment.
The international student population is trained to become self-aware artists and designers, able to make a meaningful contribution to their discipline and to society by means of their passion, their deep expertise and their experimental approach.
The Textile & Fashion department at the KABK sets high standards for innovative forms, use of colour and choice of materials, and so guarantees striking contemporary fashion statements. In 2013 the board of directors appointed the avant-garde designer Jurgi Persoons from Antwerp as head of department. Having taught in Chicago and Berlin, in The Hague Persoons will be working with the complete team of lecturers to further develop the creative vision in order to present a strong identity.
The Fashion Show contained the complete collections of the fourth-year students and smaller collections from the second and third-year students as well as form and material studies from the first-year students.
In doing so the show demonstrates the way in which students build up their own signature during the four-year Bachelor's programme. "In the rapidly evolving fashion world people are always looking for international young talent, so don't miss this opportunity to discover the latest generation of the Netherlands' most promising textile and fashion designers!”, says Marieke Schoenmakers, director KABK, The Hague.
All images catwalkpictures.com ©
From the 12th until the 15th of June, the FASHIONCLASH Festival took over Maastricht and transformed the city into the gathering of young emerging artists and designers.
The 6th edition of the international and interdisciplinary platform lived up to its expectations and presented a mesmerising, four-day fashion and art festival spread throughout the city.
With more than 3500 visitors, the SAMDecorfabriek and 35 various locations around Maastricht hosted the work of 150 emerging designers in the setting of fashion shows, exhibitions, designer market and several other projects.
The international audience was pleased to witness a high quality Fashion Show Program. With 7 shows and the collections of over 40 designers, the performances were refreshing, poetic, energizing and, simply put, beautiful.
Friday’s highlights included the label STEINROHNER. The day’s Fashion Show Program culminated in Tom Van der Borght’s energetic and colourful ‘Naked Safari’ collection.
The Czech talents Hana Frisonsova and Petra Ptackova presented two strong collections. Hana’s collection was futuristic and Petra’s collection was elegant and well- tailored. The label KRJST’s collection contained amazing prints and beautiful layers. On Saturday, the collection of Judith van Vliet & Chris van den Elzen was very successful too. While Judith took care of the garments, Chris hoisted the models on impressive shoes.
The 6th edition of the FASHIONCLASH Festival presented a number of excellent menswear collections. Plùs Que Ma Vie” by Andrea Lazzari was chic and intelligent, while the audience was enthralled by Peruvian Diego Labrin Ladrón de Guevara’s. More great menswear came strolling down the runway with great presentations of Likeme(N), KONY, MICLEE and Milica Vukadinovic.
Sunday’s highlights included ODIO and Jakub Pieczarkowski, the subtle collection of the label H O W L by Maria Glück, the superb collection by Yojiro Kake, tropical Ciara Monahan and the children’s collection by JETPAQ.
Finally, the graduating year of the Maastricht Academy of Fine Arts and Design got the opportunity to showcase their collections. The talented four girls graduating this summer, Milou van Esch, Lara Beckman, Dusty Thomas and Gelena Roizen, were acclaimed by the audience.
Festival closing act was an impressive performance by theater performer Milou van Duijnhoven.
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Dear Filep and iDEALS, last Friday, June 13, I had the pleasure to open my own festival, together with my partners in crime Laurens Hamacher and Nawie Kuiper. The opening of the 6th edition of FASHIONCLASH was truly a celebration of talent and fashion in the broadest sense, exactly what the festival aims to do.
Two shows where scheduled for this evening starting with the FASHIONCLASH classic. In tradition, for the 6th time we have invited ten creative, non-fashion designers to present an outfit for the runway.
Following we had the pleasure to introduce About 11, a selection of very promising 3rd year students from MAFAD, Maastricht Academy of Fine Arts and Design.
The Festival's theme for this year was 'AGE' having one of the projects , titled (OLD), as an expression with models/performers starting from ages like 65 reaching 80. FASHIONCLASH, Museum aan het Vrijthof and the Dutch Dance Festival asked (re- tired) craftsmen and women to share their knowledge and skills with young fashion designers.
Together, they are making a collection of clothes and accessories. These performances are choreographed by Andrea Leine, Dunja Jocic, Dario Tortorelli and Ronald Wintjens. Second part of the evening was all about fashion talent featuring STEINROHNER, Catarina Oliveira, Marta Miljanic, Joelle Boers & Bregje Cox, MCFOOL by Malou Fool and Tom van der Borght.
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We were invited by Totem for a presentation of the new collections represented by the notorious agency for next season. From Ground Zero to Manish Arora, Amaya Arzuaga, Charlie Le Mindu, Charlotte Licha, Gosia Baczynska, Tex Saverio, all of them had something special to show. Craft, colours and ideas where all what this visit was about.
John Rankin Waddell, better known as Rankin, is not just a photographer: he’s got the talent envision anything linked to fashion, music and lifestyle for more than 20 years with a huge enthusiasm. He’s founder of Dazed&Confused, AnOther Magazine (both with Jefferson Hack) and finally, the new born Hunger. Hunger is already counting 6 issues and the last one celebrates Great Britain’s cultural boom, as he calls it, “The Might Blighy”, with 20 collectable covers, featuring british talent dressed in a selection of international fashion brands. In addition, on Monday the March 3rd he inaugurated an exhibition in Paris, titled A Little More Rankin, presentated by The Hunger Magazine and Arnaud Adida at the A. Galerie. The exhibition will run until April 19th. We talked about his totally “made in UK” ability to react with arts to different period of recession from 90′s until today.
After founding and directing two magazine as “Dazed and Confused” and “AnOther”, datum points to go straight to the next big thing, now you’re running with HUNGER. What’s new with this project?
Hunger was born in November 2011 and is a fashion and culture bi-annual that publishes to coincide with Fashion Weeks. Our strap line ‘For the Culturally & Visually Hungry’ is as still as relevant today as it was back then. In fact it was my own hunger to create and bring my vision to a wider audience that prompted me to start it, that and the fact that I realised how much I had missed the creative process and camaraderie that comes from bringing a magazine together. Although in magazine terms we are still in our infancy, I’m really proud and excited about how we’re evolving and the talent we are bringing on board for each issue. For issue 6 we’ve worked with some really great contributors including stylists Kim Howells and Chris Benns who shot our main fashion stories as well as the amazing make up artist Andrew Gallimore. We chose the title ‘Mighty Blighty’ as it was meant to be a bit tongue-in-cheek but at the same time representative. We’re proud of our achievements but also didn’t want to sound too pompous or nationalistic either, and one of the facets of our culture we wanted to celebrate was, of course, our offbeat sense of humour. It felt like our little island had been experiencing a bit of cultural renaissance over the last decade, so it felt right to honour that with the new issue of Hunger.
England has gone through different periods of recession, from the post Thatcher until nowadays, and you always used your creativity as a kind of weapon against the system (for the 6th issue of Hunger there are 20 different covers). What really makes you so brave?
Why not be bold? If I’m honest I do love a challenge – just ask anyone in my team! In fact, the decision to publish twenty front cover stars was more about celebrating the talent that our island was producing and the success we were having on a global level. It was actually hard to whittle it down to just twenty, but we had to stop shooting and put the issue to bed at some point! I think it’s interesting that you describe creativity as a weapon. I certainly felt over the past six months that Britain is burning creatively, our actors and directors winning global awards, our musicians selling out world tours and our fashion and art is still as inspirational and as relevant as ever. The new issue of Hunger is about celebrating that creative fire.
How do you think the recession has impacted on the creative industries (like fashion and music) since then and how do you think they have responded?
It’s strange, but in times of economic instability, its often the case that creativity thrives. There are openings and opportunities that are closed during more prosperous times, and people think more laterally and creatively about how to push their messages and causes.
It was all flamboyance and feline fierceness at The Blondes show at Milk Studio's Wednesday night. The scene stayed true to The Blonds now infamous standard, including New York nightlife luminaries Suzanne Bartsch, Kenny Kenny, and Amanda Lepore.
The spectacular talent, Laverne Cox, from "Orange Is The New Black" sat front row as did Paris Hilton, next to a pregnant little Kim, whose newly abundant belly caused a relentless mob of photog's that had to be muscled back to the risers by security so the actual show could commence.
Opening the show was a masked Phillipe, one half of The Blonds design team, in a black cat suit covered in crystals with a similarly encrusted whip fit for a dominatrix's wet dream. Echoing the openers energy, down the runway came a glittering mix of unabashed kitty cats.
The corsets were fit for fairies on acid, and furs shown in chartreuse and electric blue were definitely a favorite. The Blonds have made closing fashion week with costume reverie a fantastical fun experience, and none were disappointed.