FILEP MOTWARY

visiting STELIOS KALLINIKOU | WITHIN NARRATIVES exhibition at 50plin1

using my iPHONE to take snaps was the only way to give you a taste.

FACELESS – Facelessness at the MuseumsQuartier Wien

Thorsten Brinkmann Lady Glittersky, 2009 © Thorsten Brinkmann, VBK, Wien 2013

The exhibition FACELESS at freiraum quartier21 INTERNATIONAL explores the phenomenon of inescapable recognizability in the media and the resulting strategies of media users to become virtually faceless. FACELESS takes a radical look at this fairly recent phenomenon of everyday media culture and shows how it manifests in visual art, fashion, photography, advertising, and dance. The show features works by artists like Marina Abramović, Thorsten Brinkmann, Peter William Holden, and Maison Martin Margiela as well as projects created by unknown Internet dwellers. Opening Wed, July 3^rd, 19:00

Marina Abramović Light/Dark, 2006 Courtesy Galerie Krinzinger, Wien 

The highly diverse strategies and methods of making faces “disappear” on the Web can be read as ironic, angry, or justified criticism of our media-infused reality. Faces do not disappear, but are manipulated beyond recognition, sometimes disfigured. The artist Bogomir Doringer, in collaboration with Brigitte Felderer from the University of Applied Arts Vienna, curated the two-part exhibition FACELESS. Part 1 is on view from June 28 to September 1, 2013.

Peter William Holden SoleNoid β Photo: Medial Mirage / Matthias Möller © Peter William Holden

“Many of the faces that appear on the Web are familiar and well-known. We recognize them, associate biographies, scandals, stories with them, and get the impression of gaining an insight into a personality and even witnessing an entire life. But in the end, the physiognomies we encounter only reflect our own personal concept of happiness, recognition, attention, and success,” says Brigitte Felderer.

Artists (Selection): Marina Abramović (SRB/USA), Martin Backes (GER), Thorsten Brinkmann (GER), Asger Carlsen (DEN/USA), Paul DeFlorian (AUT/GER), D+M (Dora Budor & Maja Cule) (CRO/USA), Caron Geary (GBR), Harem Royal (SRB), David Haines (GBR/NED), Stefan Hechenberger (AUT), Sabi van Hemert (NED), Peter William Holden (GBR/GER), Ute Klein (GER), Nienke Klunder (GBR), Zachari Logan (CAN), Maison Martin Margiela (BEL), Ismaël Moumin (BEL), Ana Rajcevic (SRB/GBR), Mustafa Sabbagh (ITA), Daniel Sannwald (GER), Frank Schallmaier (NED), Hester Scheurwater (NED), Levi van Veluw (NED), Viktor & Rolf (NED), Anne de Vries (NED), Addie Wagenknecht (USA), Bernhard Willhelm (GER), WOODKID (FRA). Some of the artists will prepare their works as artists-in-residence at the MuseumsQuartier.

Ute Klein Resonanzgeflecht #2, 2009 © Ute Klein
 

www.quartier21.at

The side program of the exhibition includes special events, artist talks, workshops for kids and teens, and podium discussions. On opening night, visitors will be able to participate in the performance “Anonymity” by Addie Wagenknecht and Stefan Hechenberger, a playful critique of surveillance society. Black glasses distributed to the visitors are reminiscent of censor bars and images from surveillance cameras make the observed into observers. Addie Wagenknecht and Stefan Hechenberger developed “Anonymity” in New York and adapted it for the opening of the exhibition FACELESS. They are artists-in-residence of the Artistic Bokeh initiative, part of the Artistic Technology Research project of the University of Applied Arts Vienna

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BRANKO POPOVIC REPORTS: COUTURE GRAPHIQUE at MOTI MUSEUM

Dear Filep and iDEALS, Couture Graphique is the first exhibition ever about fashion and graphic design; an exhibition about the communicative and decorative aspects of clothing and accessories as terms of means of communication. Clothing has become an important means of expression; clothing represents the person who wears it and what he or she wishes to project and communicate. Graphic design plays a role in fashion right up to wearable technologies where clothing is used as interface for communication technology.

The exhibition shows samples of work by Walter van Beirendonck, Bas Kosters, Henrik Vibskov, A.F. Vandevorst, Dries van Noten, Viktor & Rolf, Raf Simons, Paul Smith, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Bernhard Willhelm among others...

In addition, a parallel project by MOTI takes place, "Te[ch]x(t)iles" which is investigating innovation and technical developments in the area of fashion. Ten designers have been asked by MOTI, to show their vision on the future of fashion.The exhibition is open until August 8th 2013.

Text and images 

by

Branko Popovic

The Netherlands

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Marc Turlan / Art Cologne / French Institute

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VINCENT WILLIAM GAGLIOSTRO OPENING IN PARIS/ APRIL 4TH

Dear iDEALS, for his upcoming Paris exhibition at Galérie NeC, Gagliostro presents TABLETS (It was November; documentation 3) the third part of an semi-autobiographical multi-media trilogy including drawings, paintings, sculpture and video. The direction of this new series of work comes from a quote by fellow Abstract Minimalist Frank Stella, "What you see is what you see."With that in mind, coupled with his Formalist view of making art, Gagliostro eliminates all non-essential forms and symbolism so that the juxtaposition of the contrasting materials (bible paper, wood and architecture of the space) un-conceals the overall theme of the exhibition and his work in general, fragility and strength.

One of the pioneers of the vibrant Downtown scene, Gagliostro joined the New York art world in 1972, studying graphic design and painting at Parsons School of Design. This New York was before the gentrification, at a time when the city was almost bankrupt, giving birth to a vital art period that broke down the boundaries between creative mediums and helped pave the way for some of todays leading artists, musicians, fashion designers and film makers.

In 1976, Gagliostro secured his first solo show at only 19 years old in Washington D.C. a few years later, the growing health crisis in New York's gay community would change his life and career enormously. In 1987, he became one of the original members of ACT UP (The AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power), a group which would successfully position the burgeoning AIDS health crisis as a political crisis as well. He coordinated and created the ad campaigns for some of the group's most historical demonstrations on Wall Street, St. Patrick's Church and Washington D.C... Through art and activism, Vincent William Gagliostro boldly and courageously speaks from the human heart, which for him, speaks to, and of, our shared human condition. "My hope is that the work leads to a place that makes us care deeply about what we’ve lost."

For his upcoming Paris exhibition at Galérie NeC, Gagliostro presents TABLETS (It was November; documentation 3) the third part of an semi-autobiographical multi-media trilogy including drawings, paintings, sculpture and video. The direction of this new series of work comes from a quote by fellow Abstract Minimalist Frank Stella, "What you see is what you see." With that in mind, coupled with his Formalist view of making art, Gagliostro eliminates all non-essential forms and symbolism so that the juxtaposition of the contrasting materials (bible paper, wood and architecture of the space) un-conceals the overall theme of the exhibition and his work in general, fragility and strength.

 

One of the pioneers of the vibrant Downtown scene, Gagliostro joined the New York art world in 1972, studying graphic design and painting at Parsons School of Design. This New York was before the gentrification, at a time when the city was almost bankrupt, giving birth to a vital art period that broke down the boundaries between creative mediums and helped pave the way for some of todays leading artists, musicians, fashion designers and film makers.

In 1976, Gagliostro secured his first solo show at only 19 years old in Washington D.C. a few years later, the growing health crisis in New York's gay community would change his life and career enormously. In 1987, he became one of the original members of ACT UP (The AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power), a group which would successfully position the burgeoning AIDS health crisis as a political crisis as well. He coordinated and created the ad campaigns for some of the group's most historical demonstrations on Wall Street, St. Patrick's Church and Washington D.C... 

Through art and activism, Vincent William Gagliostro boldly and courageously speaks from the human heart, which for him, speaks to, and of, our shared human condition.

"My hope is that the work leads to a place that makes us care deeply about what we’ve lost."

Tablets (It was November; documentation 3) galerie NeC nilsson et chiglien April 5 - May 11, 2013 Opening April 4, 2013 6 - 8 pm

Exhibition: DAVID BOWIE IS at the V&A

Dear iDEALS, The V&A has been given unprecedented access to the David Bowie Archive to curate the first international retrospective of the extraordinary career of David Bowie - one of the most pioneering and influential performers of modern times. David Bowie is explores the creative processes of Bowie as a musical innovator and cultural icon, tracing his shifting style and sustained reinvention across five decades.

"We have been given unprecedented access to the David Bowie Archive to curate the first international retrospective of the extraordinary career of David Bowie - one of the most pioneering and influential performers of modern times. Over 300 objects are brought together for the very first time, including handwritten lyrics, original costumes, fashion, photography, film, music videos, set designs,Bowie’s own instruments and album artwork."

An outfit David Bowie wore on stage as Ziggy Stardust is photographed as part of a retrospective Bowie exhibition, entitled David Bowie Is, at the V&A Museum in west London, Wednesday, Mar. 20, 2013, that features 300 objects including handwritten lyrics, original costumes, fashion, photography, film, music videos, set designs and Bowie's own instruments.(Photo by Joel Ryan/Invision/AP)

GALERIE DES GALERIES presents IN A SENTIMENTAL MOOD, curated by Vanessa Desclaux,

The Gold Suit, 1996 Jack Pierson

Dear iDEALS, named after the song by Duke Ellington and John Coltrane, the « In a Sentimental Mood » exhibition offers a journey through every facet of love. Gathering the work of eight artists from different generations and backgrounds – Felix Gonzalez-Torres, Jiri Kovanda, Myriam Mechita, Daphné Navarre, Marylène Negro, Jack Pierson, Alessandro Raho and Jimmy Robert – the exhibition conceived by Vanessa Desclaux explores the experience of love in its universality as well as ultimate singularity. Through films, installations, sculptures and portraits, the exhibition brings together desire and longing, sensuality and melancholia, using contemporary imagery to express the complexity of human feelings.

Sans Doute, 2013 Daphné Navarre

Mr. and Mrs Asprey (after Slim Aarons), 2013 Alessandro Raho

By drawing on sounds, visual or gestural codes, each exhibit develops a unique approach to exploring the limitations of language in expressing the depth of an emotion. Reinventing the love letter, tapping the poetic possibilities of an object, conjuring a loving embrace – these are some of the ways chosen by the artists to capture the many moods of romantic reverie.

Two of Us, 2011 Jiri Kovanda

Born in 1981, Vanessa Desclaux works as an independent curator, but is also the author of essays on art and a regular contributor to the specialized press in Europe. Currently an art history teacher at Dijon’s Ecole Nationale Supérieure d’Art, she is also pursuing a PhD at the University of London’s Goldsmiths College

Galerie des Galeries 28/05 – 24/08/13 .Opening 27/05/13

1 er étage / first floor Galeries Lafayette 40, Bd Haussmann 75009 Paris

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ENNA HALIE: ALFA CASTALDI at 10 CORSO COMO

Filep, dear iDEALS, so, yes, fashion month is over, NY, London Milan and Paris all shown and done with apart some lingering controversies that only the fashion flock could care about “the circus of fashion”, “saint laurent” but the thing that seems to remain, at least here in Milan,is a “little” exhibition that has it’s roots in fashion or rather Milan’s artists’ culture,in the thing that combines creativity and fashion: photography. Leave it up to Carla Sozzani to put on a good show before the shows.

Photographers I know are still talking about the prints, exquisite prints, fashion journalist about the garments in the pictures and those not fortunate enough to have lived those times about the impact the pictures have made on them.I went twice.Had to. But it actually took a third visit to come up with the word that describes best the feeling conveyed by looking at the pictures exhibited; poignant. A certain nostalgia for times when prints mattered, for a time when editing was par for the course and fashion took it’s time.

The exhibition itself, curated by Alfa’s son and longtime assistant, Paolo Castaldi, is an overview of Alfa’s work from his start as a visual chronicler of Milan’s artistic scene based at the historical Bar Jamaica, personal travels and his life and collaboration with Anna Piaggi. Some of his personal snapshots, of Mrs. Piaggi, are quite touching, poignant indeed, a different view of the style icon.

There’s not much time left to see for yourselves, but do go if you can. And don’t miss the catalogue, it’s mica cover overlay resembles a Mary Katrantzou dress, somehow I can’t help but think that neither Alfa nor Anna would be displeased with the comparison.

Enna Halie

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MARK HAGEN BLACK SWAMP

March 14 - April 10, 2013 / BRUSSELS Opening Thursday, March 14, 5-8 pm

Mark Hagen was born in 1972 in Black Swamp, Virginia. Recent exhibitions include Made in L.A. 2012 New Art Now, the LA Biennial at the Hammer Museum; Art Basel Miami Beach, Art Public, at the Bass Museum of Art; and Lost Line: Contemporary Art from the Collection, at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. He lives and works in Los Angeles, California.
Almine Rech Gallery 20 Rue de l'abbaye Adbijstraat B-1050 Brussels

MoMu presents: Silks & Prints from the Abraham Archive Couture in Colour

During the 1950s and 1960s, the couturiers Christian Dior, Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Cristóbal Balenciaga all worked together with the Swiss firm, Abraham, for their exclusive fabrics. This company was specialized in printing silks.

Today, the Abraham archives, an impressive collection of sample books, couture photographs and textiles, are housed at the Swiss National Museum in Zurich. MoMu recaptures and expands on the exhibition, Soie Pirate: The Abraham Textile Archive Zurich, held from 22/10/2010 – 20/02/2011, at the Swiss National Museum in Zurich.

Silks & prints from the Abraham archive - Couture in Colour, tells both the story of the Abraham company and that of European couture, art and luxury throughout the 20th century. MoMu complements the original exhibition and completes it with couture silhouettes by Dior, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga. The exhibition, Silks & prints from Abraham - Couture in Colour, reveals which colourful textile prints were created by the Abraham firm. Contemporary designers, including Dries Van Noten, Diane Von Furstenberg and Peter Pilotto, were invited to experiment with Abraham prints.

During the 1930s, Abraham was under the leadership of Gustav Zumsteg. He regularly stayed in Paris and became acquainted with the art dealers Aimé and Margherie Maeght. They introduced him to a number of influential artists, from Georges Braque to Marc Chagall and Alberto Giacometti. Zumsteg began collecting art at the same time that he was designing textiles. In Paris, he also met couturiers, such as Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior and Elsa Schiaparelli. These great names from the art and fashion worlds had a considerable influence on Zumsteg's artistic creations. In a short period, Zumsteg became a key figure in manufacturing textiles for haute couture. In 1947, Christian Dior used Abraham fabrics for the New Look, the new silhouette after World War II, which once again presented luxury as the image of fashion and which enjoyed enormous success.

Abraham's rich weaves with deep colours were the perfect match for Dior. Ten years later, at Christian Dior's funeral, Zumsteg met Yves Saint Laurent: it would be the beginning of a 40-year collaboration.

After the arrival of prêt-à-porter, from the 1960s, the demand for top-quality silks tapered off. Zumsteg adapted to the new situation and began designing prints for the high end of the ready-to-wear market. The company did continue, albeit on a smaller scale, to produce silk prints for the Scandinavian and Middle Eastern markets. In 1995, when their close collaboration with Yves Saint Laurent came to an end, the future of the Abraham company became especially uncertain.

The firm finally closed its doors in 2002. In the summer of 2007 the Hulda und Gustav Zumsteg Foundation donated the textile archive of Zurich company Abraham Ltd. to the Swiss National Museum, their archives are rightly considered a national heritage. The Zurich Silk Association came along as an additional partner and got involved in studying the archive and in presentation and publication. 

Silks & Prints from the Abraham archive – Couture in Colour 13/03 – 11/08/2013MoMu – Fashion Museum Province of Antwerp Nationalestraat 28, B-2000 Antwerp T: +32 (0)3 470 27 70 

MOMU

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JEAN-LUC DUPONT REPORTS: HENRIK VIBSKOV EXHIBITION / NECK PLUS ULTRA

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

coinciding with the beginning of Paris fashion week was the opening of 'NECK PLUS ULTRA', the Henrik Vibskov solo exhibition at the Galerie des Galeries in Paris, which I attended and wanted to share with you. Though he might be better known for his fashion, Henrik Vibskov is a complete multitalent creator who also likes to mix genres and explore other fields of creativity such as art and music.

For his first solo show in Paris the Danish designer takes the visitor into his imaginary, playful and poetic universe, a fantasia world made of strong colours, graphic patterns, surrealist installations, geometrical shapes, textures and textiles. Mysterious puppeteers crossing a 'forest' of black fabric flamingos hung upside down (the center piece from 'The Stiff Neck Chamber', Vibskov's aw1314 catwalk show) or walking through a hypnotic spinning wind tunnel, colourful wooden puzzle artwork or woven pieces, stunning rainbow images in collaboration with photographer Thomas Jessen made using a soap bubble wall, giant yarns of wool braids on springs, sculptures in foam & stockings resembling strange larvae part of an entomologist's collection and walls 'vomiting' wool. Whether on a runway or in an art gallery Henrik Vibskov never ceases to surprise with his very strong and recognizable signature style.

 

NECK PLUS ULTRA
February 27 - May 4

Galerie des Galeries
Lafayette Coupole - 1st floor
40 bd. Haussmann 75009 Paris
Tuesday to Saturday from 11:00am to 07:00pm
free entrance

 

Text & photography

by

Jean-Luc Dupont

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