Dear iDEALS, for this season VANESSAMORIN draws inspiration from the most disputed decade of the last century, the 60’s, when the energy of a whole generation came to a head in a long fine flash, for reasons that nobody really understood at the time.
The use of natural colors, such as ivory, gray and black, mixed with olive green, deep purple and navy blue complement each other to ultimately form a classic yet edgy collection. Explore the natural movement from each fabric and feel the luxury of the exclusively hand picked materials. Experience layered textures, fall in love with everyday classics and become a modern rebel with this season’s VANESSAMORIN collection.
Dear iDEALS, TOTEM opened its doors for Un nouVeau iDEAL and NILSHD in order to present the Winter collectins for 13/14, featuring women's and menswear from Alexis Reyna, Allude, From Bitten, Avelon, Louise Gray, Julien Fournie, Manish Arora, Ground Zero, Juun J. , Serkan Cura, Julius, Songzio, Shaun Samson, Batson, Gerlan Jeans, Clarisse Hieraix, Hexa by Kuho...
Dear iDEALS, after studying Fashion at the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts and La Cambre School of Visual Arts, Deroeux established his namesake brand in France. Etienne Deroeux offers an understated luxury through his use of beautiful materials.
He creates cuts whose apparent simplicity obscures the technical complexity of their construction. Etienne Deroeux assembles each of his collections in France, working authentic partnerships with the country’s best ateliers to achieve his demanding vision of womenswear. This vision translates into production of each garment being limited to 100 pieces. Luxury is, according to Deroeux, a question of discretion. His fashion is unique and offers each woman the pleasure of a rare item and his undivided attention. Journeys, foreign places and encounters are all his sources of inspiration that transpire through his creations, building a contemporary wardrobe of sensuality and raw elegance.
FilepMotwary: How does your background, your roots reflect in what you do?
EtienneDeroeux: I don't feel rooted anywhere in particular. I'm a sponge, I absorb and digest pretty much everything I get in contact with.
It's very important for me to be like that in what I do actually.
FM: So how did everything start for you?
ED: I enrolled for an internship when I was 17 in Haute-Couture straight out of High school to know if Fashion was really what I wanted to do in my life.
then went to study in Antwerp and Brussels. Then travelled and worked for a couple of brands before launching my own in 2011.
FM: And why did you choose fashion to begin with?
ED: I wanted to design things that became alive and real. Fashion is a good way to do that.
FM: What is the most important thing you always carry or follow when working?
ED: I would say'form follows function'
FM: Why did you choose to work with women and not men?
ED: Women's wear is a good playground to explore, also I wanted to have an approach a little tomboyish, and to transpose clothes from menswear to women's wear and play around the sensuality of it.
I'm not interested in doing it the other way around for instance.
FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last. How does really longevity mean in this business?
ED: It is important to have standards, in order to build an identity. For me I created a frame, Garments are produced exclusively in France, it's made of natural fibers only, and some pieces are limited to 100 copies. That is the basis of my identity.
This said, you also have to meet your audience. To do so, you must be in the right place at the right moment, and this is something very hard to predict.
FM: In your opinion Etienne, how different are women compared to men?
ED: I'm come from a generation where the concept of inequality between men and woman is finally disappearing. There are still exceptions of course,
but It doesn't make sense for most of the people my age that we don't share a similar place in society nowadays. This is an old men concept, but the world is about to change.
Fashionwise, I think women are more playful with their style, more daring, and in the end more interesting.
You're always able to find beauty in women, even if it's hidden somewhere deep, you want to dig it out.
I find women more inspiring.
FM: How did you form the Etienne Deroeux, heroine/the woman you dress?
ED: There is not one and only Etienne Deroeux Heroine. I focus on everyday wear,
my designs echoes the principles of the American Look, when everyday life clothing became
more important than Ball dresses, this appeals to more than one precise heroin.
FM: And who is this woman?
ED: I'm designing real clothes for real women, whoever they are, whatever their age.
FM: What is your new collection about, the inspiration lets say.
ED: My last collection was about the principles of modern architecture applied to clothing, mixed with luxury sportswear.
FM: How did you start designing it, what was your research about?
ED: During my researches I found this article from the 1950's that was trying to define what modern clothing should be like:
"To stress practicality, functionality, lack of adornment, purity of shape, and character of material."
I kept it as a design ethos throughout the collection.
FM: Can other factors, for example music, become part of the collection? What else?
ED: Really, everything could become a part of the collection, it is just a matter of timing / relevance.
FM: How do you think fashion responds to the financial crisis-if there is one? Is this the moment of great creativity?
ED: It is for sure a moment where we really focus on the life we want. The crisis helped us, I think to put our lives into new perspectives,
to look for a brighter futur, and to find hope in other values.
Some people really messed up the world during the past years, and this crisis helps to reveal how bad they did.
It had a really negative effects on economy and peoples life, but I think that out of adversity comes good things,
and I believe Fashion is a good way to vehiculate new hopes.
FM: Where is your collection available?
ED: Department Store- Cabinet 206 in Berlin
Alter - Shanghai