Dear Filep and iDEALS, let me take you to some new behind the scenes from the 1st day of men's fashion week with the Carven debut Paris menswear show staged in a retro office set, to the tune of a humourous Boris Vian song.
For aw13/14 the house's artistic director Guillaume Henry imagined quirky fifties office clerks suffering from eternal teenage syndrome and ready to climb the social ladder as if trying to reach a mountain top.
They assume proportions that may seem awkward. They wear a fresh & playful hybrid of classic with a twist and sportswear: trompe l'oeil prints of classical fabrics such as herringbone tweed for down jackets with bright coloured fur trimming on the hoods or a print originating from the art students' marbled portfolio for a car coat or a briefcase, contrasted collars for oversize coats, short silhouette for the almost formal jackets, matching nordic jacquard pattern for a new take on the twinset with a printed blouson associated to a very soft fluffy mohair jumper, all of those paired with extra-cropped tailored trousers inspired by the traditional ski pants from the '40s and worn with calf-high socks.
Guillaume Henry likes to look back but at the same time he's definitely a man of his time and that's how, quietly & surely, with his so frenchy signature style touch, he takes Carven to a successful new future.
Text & photography