Before the debut collection of its new Artistic Director in March, the studio at SONIA RYKIEL has refocused upon a wardrobe of essentials for a collection of timeless pieces with that signature Rykiel twist. Expect supple shapes both easy-wearing and versatile that celebrate the movement of the body. Here feminine and masculine will continue to collide though the slen- der volumes remain above-all sexy. By day, a man’s trouser is sometimes found matched with a suit jacket.
Sometimes long and loose, otherwise short and fitted, teamed here with a crepe-de-chine ruffled transparent blouse, there a jumper in irregular or textured stripes, it refines the silhouette, adding height. Blazers and coats envelop the body and jostle at the hemline, swooping full length in double- sided angora or three-quarters in tweed, channelling the uniform of the marine-corps officer. Here again texture is explored as the tweeds adopt jacquard motifs while wool is worked into woven chevron or crushed knit patterns.
The colour palette plays on dark navies and midnight blues, black and anthracite grey often alongside white interspersed here and there with shades of a recurring red, the veritable leitmotiv of the collection. Orange reds burn to rust before vermillion and crimson blush to burgundy; uniform for a double-georgette djellaba dress, dual for a striped cashmere jumper, playfully tracing a ‘foliage’ print in crêpe-de-chine across a wrap skirt or a shirt/trouser ensemble.Dusk falls and so do the hemlines, clouds of drapery enwreathe the body in fluid sensuality. A woman of sophisticated charms stealing away with our nights.