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A conversation among opinion leaders from the worlds of industry, fashion, culture, and training: participants will include writers and journalists, philosophers, curators, architects, artists, teachers, and students, all of whom who will be exchanging ideas on the theme of "The City,
Training &
Fashion."
The visionaries:
Aki Choklat
Alberto Salvadori
Barbara Vinken
Danilo Venturi
Dobrila Denegri
Eugene Rabkin
Erik Bjerkesjo
Filep Motwary
Linda Loppa
Stefan Siegel
POLIMODA
Dear iDEALS, I had the pleasure to photograph Bianca Makris debut collection of handmade luxury fashion jewelry and accessories.
The aesthetic combines the crochet lightness and volume with the chain rock ’n’ roll vibe; the crystal fresh approach with the classic sensibility of pearls and grosgrain for a versatile, stylish and ever-changing statement collection.
Photography by Filep Motwary ©
Make-up : Nana Papadopoulou
Hair styling: Nina Khanna
Model: Madalina Tanasie
All photographs by Deborah Bloemen (UBER & KOSHER) exclusive for Un nouVeau iDEAL. Material subject to copyrights ©
Dear Filep and iDEALS,
I was surrounded by absolute perfection!
From September 12th, 2012 till February 10th, 2013 MoMu presents MADAME GRÈS. Sculptural Fashion, an overview of the work of the Parisian couturier, Madame Grès (1903– 1993).
Madame Grès felt herself as much a sculptor as a fashion designer: ‘I wanted to become a sculptor. For me, working with stone or fabrics is the same thing.’
She draped or pleated the fabric directly onto the model, without artificial devices and mostly without using scissors and needles, so that she also came to be known as the pioneer of seamless garments. In the fifty years of her career, her work went through a range of stylistic periods, from Hellenistic, draped evening dresses to modern, minimalist daytime garments and stylish beachwear, always in her own specific style: sober, timeless, sculptural and utterly feminine.
Conceptually, the design of the exhibition at the Fashion Museum will be consistent with the sculptural fashion of Madame Grès. To achieve this, MoMu will work with the Belgian artist Renato Nicolodi, who has designed new elements and installations for the exhibition spaces and will also exhibit own work. His archetypal, minimalist and classically inspired works take on a stimulating dialogue with the work of Madame Grès.
MoMu welcomes and recomposes the retrospective of Madame Grès from Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, which was presented in 2011 at the musée Bourdelle in Paris. This exhibition reunites Madame Grès silhouettes originating mostly from the Gallièra collections as well as some private collections.
Portrait by Matthias Ziegler
FilepMotwary: How did you form the Allude heroine/the woman you dress?
AndreaKarg: I started to make sensual, more sexy cashmere knits for myself as I loved the material but couldn't find anything which I really liked. A modern contemporary look -this was my starting point and as the success of the brand proofs- I wasn't the only one looking for this specific Allude look
AK: A luxurious and details loving woman
FM: Andrea, do you feel fashion is changing? To which direction?
AK: There is no more "dictatorship" of fashion, which results in more freedom, but that doesn`t make it necessarily more easy. What you definitely need is style and attitude to find your look.
FM: What is the most important thing a designer must never forget?
AK: You get onto the women`s skin- you cannot get closer....which is a gift but results into a huge responsibility. (At the end of the day fashion are clothes that have to cover and give them security and self confidence)
FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion. How does really longevity mean in this business?
AK: The flexibility and the intense sense of feeling the "zeitgeist". To have the ability of reacting to the community and to give them hold through clothes.
FM: And how different are women compared to men?
AK: In fashion? Women are much more experimental and free to chance looks each season. they don't feel "married" to one look, women loves to play different roles... At the end this is what men love about women. (Smiles)
FM: What is romance for you?
AK: Privacy
FM: What is your SS13 collection about, the inspiration lets say. How did you start designing it, what was your research about?
AK: Unlimited Spaces – a hymn to women! I wanted to approach this season freely and with no restrictions: only a fascination with the color blue with its mystic associations was significant in developing the collection. Not just blue like the ocean to represent the element of water, but blue like the universe with its unlimited space – as unlimited as the female being and the female soul! It’s a hymn to women that symbolizes the infinite nature of life. Reflections of the four elements play a key role in the collection: light and shimmer effects in addition to the color white are dedicated to the element of air. This is cleverly reflected in the knit, which is airy, transparent and permeable.
FM: Can other factors, for example music, become part of the collection? What else?
AK: I played with contrasts and my love of incongruities: soft cashmere is combined with strong lines, designed styles meet natural flows. Everything follows the beat of the Chemical Brothers, whose electronic music underlines the mysticism of this summer at Allude.
FM:You’ve deviated from a monochrome palette for your S/S 13 collection. Tell us about your experiments with color this season. There is a lot of color blocking, also pantsuits?
AK: The collection is ‘earthed’ with khaki to represent the element of earth. Flamboyant effects are created by red to symbolize the element of fire and straight line of electric blue in the collection is the unlimited sky. Combined together, the collection not only forms a harmonious symphony of silhouettes, materials and colours, but also delivers a well-rounded energetic concept by incorporating the archaic power of the four elements.
FM:How do you think fashion responds to the financial crisis-if there is one? Is this the moment of great creativity?
AK: We are a part of the luxury industry, which seams to be non-vulnerable, but also here the customers are looking for real values, for sustainability and a true value for what they purchase. the time is over for prices which are not comprehensible. creativity is the base of all
FM: How does your background, your roots reflect in what you do?
AK: My motto: what you do not want others do to you, you shouldn`t do to them
FM:What is next for Allude?
AK: For Allude I created the first cashmere sneaker.....more to come very soon.
Allude is represented by TOTEM. All photos backstage and catwalk by Olivier Claisse. Thank you Elisa Palmer
"Dear Filep, I am sending you my last story for Vogue Japan with the amazing and very talented Patrycja Gardygajlo, who I spotted a while ago in Warsaw and teamed up with us for this shoot in Tokyo last month..."
photography: René Habermacher
editor: Junko Hirose
fashion editor: Rena Semba
Hair: Asashi
make up: Yumi Endo
model: Patycja Gardygajlo
at JUNYA WATANABE FW 12\13. One of the finest moments during the winter collections in Paris.Photography by Filep Motwary
Juxtaposing all that hardness were some lovely soft pieces; flowing dresses and romantic blouses in ditsy prints, flocked florals, or burnout velvets...
Dandy short suits, tailored capes, modern-looking business wear ...
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