Dear iDEALS, Walter Van Beirendonck's mens collection for the summer of 2013 is again an amazing excuse to be playful & fresh. When I asked him for some images to share with you, he pointed out Ronald Stoops, with whom they have been collaborating for many many years.
Dear iDEALS, V&R's PR just sent me the images featuring their truly elegant and ultra feminine resort collection for 2013. I'am posting some of my favorite looks.
Dear iDEALS, going back to his Southern Italian roots, Riccardo Tisci looks at the cult of communion. Mixing it with a Bauhaus reference and a rich iconography of reworked classical Madonnas, the Spring/Summer collection brings together romanticism and sharpness.
A romantic almost angel-like innocence transpires through pristine silhouettes. Clean tailoring and long shirt-tunics fix the season. The masculine urban feeling that has defined Givenchy menswear over the years moves away from sportswear fabrics. Couture materials such as duchesse satin, woven printed jacquard layered with same-print silk chiffon, organza and moiré redefine allure and sensuality.
Elongated shapes and blocking cuts add geometry and graphic purity. Paneling and layering give life to the clothes. They move and create optical effect when sheer chiffon is matched with Japanese high density wool or high density twisted cotton. A series of reinvented classical Icons translate Riccardo Tisci’s new take on prints. Various techniques explore water colors, blurred effect framed in graphic cubes and colorful rectangles, X-ray superimposition and computerized manipulations. Hmmm...
A unique collaboration with the THE EAST INDIA COMPANY
Dear iDEALS, in celebration of the Diamond Jubilee, Bruno Frisoni, Creative Director of Maison Roger Vivier, was inspired by the original shoe designed of M. Vivier for the Coronation of HM Queen Elizabeth II, to create ‘A Queen Forever’. This once-in-a-life-time, jewel-like shoe is suitably diamond-incrusted and hand-crafted in close collaboration with The East India Company, whose rich history is linked both to diamonds and royalty.
The Coronation proved to be a momentous date for Roger Vivier as he took his place in history by designing the footwear worn by the young Queen on this historic occasion. In fine, kidskin gold leather, inlaid with rubies to both heel and upper decorative motif, it echoed the fleur-de-lys that decorates the St Edward Crown and the Imperial State Crown worn by Her Majesty on this day. The heel was elevated and Roger Vivier created a hidden platform within... Sixty years on and the Roger Vivier ‘A Queen Forever’ jewel for the foot is realised with the iconic fleur-de- lys motif encrusted with over 4000 brilliant cut diamonds, its intricate setting designed by The East India Company and hand-crafted by its team of expert artisans, using diamonds supplied by Gitanjali, leading Indian diamantaire.
The East India Company, with its renewed focus on design-driven luxury, was a natural choice: the original British Trading Company, The East India Company was responsible for the acquisition of the legendary Indian diamond, the Koh–I-Noor, which was presented in 1850 to Queen Victoria, the newly proclaimed Empress of India, and the only British monarch, other than Queen Elizabeth II, to have celebrated 60 years on the throne. Hand stitched in Paris by the ‘petites mains’, it sparkles brightly from its vertiginous perch, set high against a backdrop of black satin and heralded by a glorious plumage of jet feathers.
Enveloped in precious diamonds, ‘A Queen Forever’ is a unique celebration of a very precious time in the history of the Roger Vivier Maison made possible by this special collaboration with The East India Company.
The shoe will be available to view upon private appointment at Roger Vivier London and will be then exhibited at the diamond “Brilliant Exhibition”, part of the prestigious Masterpiece Fair in London, from June 28th to July 4th 2012.
Dear iDEALS, after an eight-year presence within the digital space, Hypebeast is proud to announce their new venture into print publishing. The inaugural issue featuring 200 pages revolves around the theme of 'Synthesis,' where the essence of renowned fashion designers was captured through in-depth interviews and editorial shoots.
Those featured include the likes of Kris Van Assche, Phillip Lim, Boris Bidjan Saberi, Shawn Stussy and others. With its main focus on fashion, the issue also features other lifestyle leaders including artist, Cai Guo-Qiang; the Managing Director of Vitsoe, Mark Adams; Emerging Jazz trio, BADBADNOTGOOD and more. With an already established eponymous online platform that receives over three million uniques per month, the goal of the magazine is to create a platform that allows Hypebeast to focus in greater depth the topics that we cover - a luxury not afforded on a digital platform.
With the time and space to research and divulge in what we feature, we can present prominent and relevant information on a tangible and bold medium. Released quarterly throughout the year, each themed issue will offer rich interviews and in-depth features, as well as vivid shoots and photo-spreads that make this magazine aesthetically engaging. Relevant to contemporary culture and pleasing in its clean layout design, the Hypebeast magazine is your source for understanding fashion, culture and lifestyle.
The Hypebeast magazine will be released and sold on June 28, 2012 at the Hypebeast online store and select stockists for $12 USD (£7.50 GBP) per issue.
Dear iDEALS, the Viktor & Rolf Monsieur Spring/Summer 2013 collection reflects the house's approach to a smart gentleman, with unexpected twists in detail. Inspired by the vibrant colors and relaxed silhouettes of India, the collection merges a layered, soft silhouette with a traditional sartorial approach. The juxtaposition of these two worlds creates a colorful collection with an elegant, relaxed attitude. The silhouettes are a combination of summer tailoring layered with light, easy pieces.
Colorful tunics peak out through the range and have a relaxed summer fit. A house classic trench in terracotta is lightweight and unexpectedly lined with the signature spectacles-print, an iconic print for Monsieur.
The tuxedo in summer wool-silk is freshly done in a dove grey resulting in a modern, chic approach to evening wear. New in the range, the light constructed jacket, worn here with Jodhpur trousers, results in a definitive silhouette.
The traditional, western herringbone print is modernly re-interpreted in variations: jacquards for tuxedo jackets, hand-drawn all over for lightweight wool suiting, cotton shirts and nylon outerwear pieces and by hand-embroidered mirrors in herringbone patterns on evening wear, knitwear and t-shirts.
A palette of salmon and oranges ranging from pale to bright are the highlight seasonal colors against classical contrasts of white, black, midnight and beige. Composed of a combination of brushed leather, canvas, mirrored leather, or suede, the shoes and bags compliment the relaxed elegance of the collection. Loafers, lace-ups and ankle boots offer a masculine, refined, structured look; while the sneakers, sandals and bags round out the collection with their effortless chic wearability.
Raised in Canada and of German descent, Von Aichinger has graced countless catwalks and magazine covers throughout her modelling career, and now she continues her journey through fashion as a stylist and muse. In our latest fashion video feature, JOYCE caught a glimpse of how this modern goddess works her magic with Madhavi during a magazine cover shoot, featuring Hollywood film star Naomi Watts.
"There’s something
nice about the
(fashion) world being
inaccessible - it was
very mysterious..."
“I think it (styling) just makes sense really, it’s just an extension of what I was doing as a model. It’s not art - fashion is a thing of the instant, of the moment, a few months later, what you’ve just designed… not exactly irrelevant because good design always stays, good design can wear forever, but it’s just the nature of the business, it keeps moving forward,” she says.
Today the word “muse” is overused in the fashion industry, but Von Aichinger was one of the first and original muses in Paris in the 90's and onward 2000's, working for John Galliano and later for Jean Paul Gaultier until 2007.
What made her different was her interests outside of the fashion realm, which added depth and complexity to her beauty, making her even more inspiring. Apart from being a prominent figure both in front and behind the fashion lens, she also likes to perform on stage once in a while.
“When I started to sing I was really goofing around. I’m still goofing around. I like a lot of different things, I love music, painting and art but music is probably the art form that I relate to the most,” she says.
Although Von Aichinger occasionally makes appearances on the catwalk and poses for cameras, it was the late 90's and full 2000's that she remembers most fondly.
“You know what’s great, like in John’s [Galliano] show, Mugler, Montana… I’m always bringing them up because they’re so amazing. 15, 20 models were sent out to the catwalk in one shot. Each girl was different looking. Each girl had something specific to her, so you recognized each one. Oh that’s Simonetta, that’s Pat, that’s this girl and that’s that girl… Everyone was working the runway without any rehearsal. Somehow just work so beautifully.”
Admittedly much has changed since Von Aichinger first took to the runway all those years ago, including the rise of the internet which has made fashion accessible to almost everyone.
Video Credits
INTERVIEW : FILEP MOTWARY / UN NOUVEAU IDEAL PRODUCTION: ANTOINE ASSERAF / THE STIMULEYE CAMERAS: JASON LAST & SHAWNA FERREIRA PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALI MAHDAVI & RENE HABERMACHER THANK YOU NAOMI WATTS, LAUREN BARNHART AND ALI MAHDAVI
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