Dear iDEALS, I met Skylar just a few minutes before the Rick Owens show at Bercy. A young American guy, whom you probably know from his work for Purple magazine.
At first I asked whether he would like to share some of his catwalk photography and post them on my blog. On second thought, I suggested if he has something different to show. Here are some wonderful shots he did, while leaving home.
All photos by Skylar Williams ©
Dear iDEALS, I met German Thomas Behrens about a month ago during my visit to Villa Noailes for the 28th Edition of the Hyeres Festival. Though Thomas was not one of the contestants, he opened his heart to me and shared his plans and personal goals, his new collection and dreams. A multitasker by nature, he started his career as a stylist before he moved to design, in 2005.
He is now preparing to present his collection in Florence as a PITTI UOMO participant. Here's what he told me.
FilepMotwary: So Thomas, which experiences helped you form your own aesthetics?
ThomasBehrens: It developed by making fashion. Before doing this collection I did a collection free from any boundaries. In a way, I wanted to test me. How far can I go creatively and technically... At the end it looked like an army of future amazons. But by trying this and organizing a guerilla presentation in front of the fashion tent during the fashion week, I learned a lot about myself, and what I want to say. It has become a process that thankfully keeps going.
FM: What is your new collection about?
TB: Oh, my new collection started with an experience I had. For a job I had seen a building of Richard Neutra in which an old, really nice lady lives in. He only built a few houses in Germany only because his construction method is corresponding more to a warmer climate. I was impressed about the symbiosis of the interior and the surrounding nature, just separated by a glass wall. Outside you had water basins and when the sun comes up you see all the reflection on the walls and the wooden ceiling inside. The idea of stepping out of bed, feel the carpet pile under your naked feet, open the panorama window, walk over the grass and jumping in the pool was fascinating.
FM: Why did you choose menswear and not womenswear?
TB: During my studies I made both. But now I decided for menswear. I like the technical part of it and also that menswear has boundaries, you can respect or slightly move a bit further. Menswear also is pays a lot of attention to the details.
FM: In your opinion what are the differences between men and women?
TB: This is a complicated question. In clothes there are differences and I like these differences. For example there are just a few men which are looking good in skirts. But there is a lot of changing in the understanding of mens and womenswear. Recently Andrej Pejic could be seen as a physical expression of this new idea. The dream about androgyny, to break with established roles is reemerging. In my vision man and women come very close to one another, but not that they adopting the fashion of the opposite sexes, it is more an expansion of boundaries. This could be the choice of the fabric quality, the fit of a shoulder etc..
FM: What makes a designer important in your opinion in order to last? How does really longevity mean in this business?
TB: Longevity means a lot but it is getting rare in this business. But there are houses where the designers are coming back and I appreciate this and this keeps me up, because it shows that there are costumers following the designer. And I think sometimes to separate the company from the designer of different reasons isn't the right solution, because it dilutes the message. And what makes fashion interesting is for me the diversity.
FM: How did you form the hero/the man you dress?
TB: Maybe he is a character from a novel of Thomas Mann. At the moment he is on holiday, on a road-trip threw America. He is someone who loves the ritual of dressing. He is not loud or aggressive, maybe his provocation is about showing his vulnerability without any precautions.
FM: Is there any tension between the idea and the execution, in terms of the time that separates them?
TB: Yes, because in this collection I wanted to do something really natural, a relaxed look. But to create a soft fit blazer, is something not so stress relieving. There is a lot to think, which construction you use underneath, always with the fear to loose the spontaneity you had in your mind at the beginning.
FM: You are now preparing for Pitti. How do you imagine Pitti Uomo?
TB: I have never been to the Pitti before, but I heard that the atmosphere should be nice and not like a typical fair with little boxes where people siting separated like birds in cages.
FM: What are your expectations?
TB: I hope to meet interesting people and maybe selling some pieces.
collection+styling Thomas Behrens
model Marc Schulze/ Viva
grooming Laura Sauer/ Bigoudi
photographer's assistant Anna Gold
Reality and Family.
The Fall/Winter ad campaign is all about family values and love. Black & white portraits picture women and men of various horizons showing the strength and the diversity of the Riccardo Tisci gang. The story celebrates individuals with strong personalities and natural beauty.
The story goes on: on the set and outside the set with my family, Mert & Marcus, Luigi, Lucia, Carine, Katy… These people are my family. They have always believed in me. They are very faithful to me. Faithfulness and love are the most amazing things in what I want to do. I think it is a moment of history for me in fashion for my own gang. I want to credit each time the people that are very faithful to my style, and faithful as human beings. This time, there is a gypsy feeling because it is the inspiration of the collection. Again, the reality of someone like Carine with her daughter showing real love or Quim with Amanda is very special to me. All of them, including the models, are real gypsies in their own life. They are never in one place. They travel the world. It is a real relationship, not only physically, but also with a content even when far away…”
Pants Emilio Pucci. Shoes Alaia
The ss2013 Tod's No_Code capsule collection, that combines a long heritage of shoe making with the cutting-edge lifestyle of the visionary editor Jefferson Hack, gets new strength through the words of selected influencers of the London artistic scene like James Jagger, Layo Paskin, Carolina Bucci, Tom Oxley and Polly Morgan.
Carolina Bucci
They’re the protagonists of the Tod’s No_Code dedicated site, where they exclusively unveil, through their work, videos and interviews, their lifestyle and their Tod’s No_Code spirit.
They represent the energy and spirit of what makes London one of the most exciting places for culture and style today.
They are global nomads travelling time zones and cityscapes moving from airport lounges to studios, from bars to meeting rooms. They mix English eccentricity, a sense of humor about fashion and a certain rock and roll attitude that makes the collection come alive.
«No_Code creates beautiful, elegant shoes and jackets that mix Italian craftsmanship with a London inspired sensibility. The Spring / Summer 2013 collection is called “London Calling”. It’s a return to London and East London», says Jefferson Hack.
Layo Paskin
Tod’s No_Code dedicated site brings the digital storytelling of the brand to a new dimension, with special digital initiatives where users can discover the collection, be redirect to Tod’s online shop to buy and discover special and exclusive contents.
Polly Morgan
Dear iDEALS, the House of Paco Rabanne has today announced the departure of Lydia Maurer, its Artistic Director of Women's Ready-to-Wear. She headed the in-house design team for the past year as part of the ongoing relaunch of the iconic French luxury brand.
The House of Paco Rabanne comments: "Lydia Maurer brought a new spirit of femininity and modernity to Paco Rabanne ready-to-wear. Her work on the Spring/Summer 2013 and Fall/Winter 2013 shows contributed to raising the profile of the House on the international fashion stage."
interstitial space of desire
and death, sceneries, bodies,
hands, animals, mountains
and birds, come together in
an encounter to create a
narration which is left
without an ending.
A narration open to various
interpretations. Images that
want to take off but
constantly keep landing. A
catholic silence that yet one
clearly feels there is a roar
that underlies it, lightning
which strikes within a
tranquil seaside scenery,
making darkness into light
even for an instance."
Duration: 10 May 2013 – 15 June 2013 49 Ellados, 3041 Limassol, Cyprus
Dear iDEALS, in collaboration with art director Dean Langley, the brand has explored the aesthetics of the men’s FW 2013-2014 , photographed by Clare Shilland. This project re-affirms Marni’s commitment to explore the menswear collection by experimenting with different mediums; last season a short film, this season a book.
The menswear presents an exciting opportunity for Marni to reach out in this new way to define and bring alive the collection in a relevant alternative to a fashion show. Consuelo Castiglioni was inspired by the work of art director Dean Langley.
The collaborations starting point was the spirit of the mens collection and Marni’s creative approach to it. Consuelo was interested in experiencing the collection through the eyes of someone who had not been involved in the design, to have a new angle and a new take on the visual communication of Marni Uomo. Working with the Marni team, Dean Langley created a non linear portfolio of images, merging playful graphic elements with beautiful stills. The shocking fluo pink is an bold theme throughout the book, while the patterns are the seasons’ prints, typically used on the clothes, are photographed, enlarged and re-imagined. The Marni logo is manipulated in provocative new ways as well.
Dear iDEALS, yesterday afternoon, artist and dear friend Dinakar Anthony Kattashis aka Cusack invited me to his home to present me his collection of decorative accessories. A small selection of stunning
objects that add distinctive personality, texture and uniqueness to
interior spaces. He makes everything himself. I bought this wonderful vase which is around 40cm X 30cm. Among a number of other talents, Tony is also a tattoo artist and a mucisian. He shares his appartment with Naya Savva, also involved in art and together they have created a universe of their own in the heart of Nicosia.
“I still remember that scene.
Her golden hair waving in the
wind…The blue armour she
wore and the moon rays
shining on it…That’s how we
met and that’s the way the Holy
Grail War began”.
(cit. Fate Stay Night/ Emiya Shirō)
Through the most recent video-ludic experiences, Type-moon delivers us one of the most fascinating fantasy tales, then becoming a today’s epic, magic and touching visual novel, thanks to Dat Nishiwaki’s drawing.
A particular character, Arturia Pendragon, who became King after pulling the sword out of the rock, inspires the whole collection. Once again, a strong woman with a more and more determined and domineering nature is in the spotlight. Fringes and sequins shape the body with forms similar to knights’ bright armours, without disregarding the sensualand hyper-feminine side which still distinguishes MirkoG. di Brandimarte brand.
Thank you Maximilian and Serena
Dear iDEALS, you might remember a while ago, when young choreographer Harry Koushos, asked me to design the costumes for his coming performance, MAN II, the third and final part of a trilogy for which the first two parts have been already presented in Cyprus.
Thanks to Ioanna Chatziandreou, I have some beautiful photographs from his rehearsal. You can see more of my costumes here. The performance took place in Athens, yesterday May 19th.
Harry Koushos in collaboration with Mina Lambropoulou
performed by Harry Koushos and Michael Kriempardis
Costumes by Filep Motwary
Photography by Ioanna Chatziandreou
Beautiful Ataui at the Jean Paul Lespagnard show. Photos Filep Motwary
Recent Comments