FILEP MOTWARY

JOACHIM SCHIRRMACHER FOR MADE IN THESSALONIKI

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

the power of creativity is the theme of the festival "Made in Thessaloniki“ which will take place from 2nd to 8th March, an event organized by Giorgios Toulas and Michalis Goudis from the Magazine "Parallaxi“ in collaboration with Goethe-Institut, the cultural institution of the Federal Republic of Germany.
The festival will promote Fashion, Graphic and Industrial Design within a firework of events all around town. The Programme is dedicated to professionals, artists, students along with anyone who shares the same interests. The Festival takes place on the occasion of the 100 anniversary of the liberation of the city of Thessaloniki.

© Kristian Schuller

Part of the extended programme, there are six exhibitons alone, like an overview about Grafic Design from 1980 to 2009 - Macedonian Museum of Conteporary Art, fashion shows, lectures, workshops under the guidance of experienced professionals, design tours as well as a Symposium with lecturers from London and Berlin. The admission to all events is free.

MARC JACOBS SELECTS EMERGING TALENTS! APPLY NOW

Dear iDEALS,

with show season currently in full swing, we wanted to introduce you to an exciting opportunity to have Marc Jacobs take you under his wing and to present your collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.
 
Düsseldorf-based established fashion retailer Peek & Cloppenburg (P&C) is once again looking for the "Designer for Tomorrow" and applications are still accepted until 29th February, online and via post.

With this initiative P&C aims to help nurture young talent and provides a tailor-made mentoring and promotional programme from Patron Marc Jacobs. It furthermore includes prize money as well as the exclusive opportunity to present your collection as part of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin.

Eligible to participate are all creative young designers who have either completed their studies within the last 24 months, or can provide proof of training in fashion design, and who are not yet retailing their collection.

More detailed information about the award, entry criteria and rewards can be found attached, and on the official "Designer for Tomorrow" website (www.designer-for-tomorrow.com),

Best of luck and best wishes...

MATTHEW ZORPAS REPORTS: ENJOY SAINT - THANK YOU

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

I have just received these beautiful shots by Saint Brewing Co. Saint is a new style of craft lager developed and made in Britain. Lucky me, I had my brogues shined at their shoe shine stand just as I was going to the Topman Design show! My thanks to the Premium British Lager for sponsoring my London Fashion Week reviews this week. Find out more information about Saint here: http://www.enjoysaint.com/

Matthew Zorpas

London Correspondent

KATIA BOLOLIA REPORTS: CORRIE NIELSEN BACKSTAGE EXCLUSIVE

Dearest Filep & iDEALS,

Corrie Nielsen named her last collection Vestiarium Scoticum and looked to her heritage in the Scottish Highlands for a collection which highlighted tartan, black chiffon ruffles and beautifully tailored garments that took our breath away. Jo Phillips and the Cent magazine team were the stylists behind the show, we dressed the collection with exquisite headpieces by Emma Yeo made out of lazer-cut wood to resemble the texture of the pheasant feathers.

Furthermore, we made a statement using high-heels for the daywear pieces and ponyskin ballet flats by United Nude for the evening pieces and finale cape.

Also introduced for the first time by Phyllis Cohen was "face lace", a make-up technique that covered half the models' faces with an intricate pattern, while the hair were tied in buns setting a new trend for A/W12.

I feel very lucky to have worked with Corrie and style backstage this inspiring and beautiful collection which blew me away already by day one at LFW A/W12. Corrie even had her own ice-cream taste created specially for her by master gelato makers Scoop known for the best ice-cream in London, a blend of chocolate and orange that was so good it just made us scream for more ice-cream. Here is an exclusive look backstage through the stylist's camera.

Words and images

by

Katia Bololia

London Correspondent

FRANCESCA MANUZZI REPORTS: MILANO FASHION WEEK / DAY II / WITH THE QUEEN AND THE HOT FASHION BOYS

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

Sveglia! Sveglia! I have a tight schedule ahead with six fantastic guys waiting for me. Room 137 at the Carlton Hotel Baglioni is hosting Burak Uyan, a German Paris-based designer, whose eponymous shoe label guarantees designs inspired by architecture mixed with a high dose of glam. For the next season, according to the words of Burak Uyan, his collection is likely to have an even prouder and stronger allure, of medieval inspiration, continuing his exploration of Art Deco elements. The leathers have undergone a treatment to present a primitive aspect, evoking Isam Noguchi's sculptures.

Somewhere on the way, I met Fausto Puglisi, the most chatted designer of the past 15 days, the man responsible for dressing up MIA and Nicki Minaj at the Super Bowl during Madonna's half-time performance, and for designing the deep placket on Belen Rodriguez's dress at Sanremo's.

His collection exhibit his core themes. Marvelous studded gladiator jackets, rebellious dresses and a brand new conservative and bcbg attitude, inspired by Helmut Newton.

Then there's the sportswear brand from the Antwerp Six...

Dirk Bikkembergs and his designer Paola Toscano return with a bright and colorful women line and the same bright colors can be found at the Vogue talents corner.

Led by Juan Caro and Fabio Sasso's (the duo behind Leitmotiv) surrealistic collection, Shourouk jewels and Mungo Gurney's printed clothing.

Well, are these fantastic new comers enough? Of course not.Today was Miuccia Prada's day. La Signora, the undiscussed Queen of Milan fashion week, rocked as usual. Prada's 700 sq meters space offered an Opera setting with a white and violet carpet serving as background for tons of full-bodied precious tailleurs and 3D retro suits.

Also, everybody was talking about another woman today, who's returning to her own fashion house: Jil Sander.

I don't really know much about it, what I do know is that Raf Simons will exit the brand on February 27. The consequence: I can't wait to see his last show on Saturday. Nighty night...

Francesca Manuzzi

Milano correspondent

ONE TO WATCH: GLENN MARTENS

Dear iDEALS, originating from Bruges, Belgium, Glenn Martens graduated first in his class from the internationally acclaimed fashion institute The Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp. During his final year in 2008, he was recruited for Jean Paul Gaultier as a junior designer for the women’s pre-collection in addition to the men’s label “G2” and has since been based in Paris.

In mid-2010, after a successful run as first assistant to independent designer Yohan Serfaty, Martens decided to work independently on various high-profile projects affiliated with several European brands, which include Weekday and Honest By Bruno Pieters. In February 2012, Martens will launch his Womenswear line under the name “Glenn Martens” during Paris Fashion week.

Graphic tailoring woven into structural elegance characterizes this line. His debut autumn/winter collection bridges a technical background and emotional atmosphere with a straightforward look. Culminating in architectural cuts that boast a comfortable fit, the foundation of Glenn Martens resides and relies on transcendent versatility.

Download Glenn Martens_Introduction_FW12

MATTHEW ZORPAS REPORTS: TOPMAN FW 12\13 BACKSTAGE EXCLUSIVE

CONTEST: BEYOND THE WALL

For the 27th edition of the Hyères Fashion + Photo Festival, The Stimuleye presents choreographer Lynsey Peisinger’s PILLORY, a performance/video/installation hybrid.

Submit your 30 seconds maximum video before April 1st for a chance to have it featured in the installation, which launches April 27th at the 2012 Hyères Fashion + Photo Festival,  next exhibits by  Yohji Yamamoto, Jasons Evans, and Inez van Laamswerde + Vinoodh Matadin.

Imagine what lies beyond the wall of the PILLORY installation.

All submitted videos must be:
-no more than 30 seconds long,
-from one angle/point of view,
& submitted before April 1st, 2012.

Fore more info and video guidelines: contest©thestimuleye.com

ROSES ON YOUR DOOR

MIGUEL VILLALOBOS & GRAHAM TABOR @ 1-100 PARIS SHOWROOM

FRANCESCA MANUZZI REPORTS: MILANO FASHION WEEK FRENZY HAS STARTED

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

today is the day. The caravanserai from a show to another has started. It seems that the Milanese journey this time will be even much better than the last few years. We will attend happenings at Castello Sforzesco for the first time and obviously in many other amazing hot places.

Everything begins at Gucci. Frida e le donne. Madame Giannini, the roman creative director of the brand from the city of the lily, paints a noir feminine. Floating in a world of chiffon made of dark tiny opulence.

The same at Alberta Ferretti, who designs for stronger women, living in Palazzo Donizetti and overbearing in Iron Lady’s leather and silk suit.

Alessandro Dell’Acqua, for his N 21, brings British’s code too. Creating sweatshirt and gardener’s apron dresses inspired by Queen Elisabeth’s favourite predilection for gardening.

It is time to show the crème of the crop at Sergio Zambon and his passion for heritage, handicraft, neo liberty graphics and surrealism. He draws palazzo pyjamas, military parkas and duvet dresses in a Gordon Matta-Clarck way. With portholes as André Courrèges done in late 60’s.

And it’s not a case, because Courrèges is back at 10 Corso Como to celebrate his 50th anniversary with a collection of trapezium vinyl dresses.

Tomorrow..It is a brand new day and I’m off to Elisabetta Franchi’s party at Palazzo Visconti with Seth Troxler on the decks!

 

Francesca Manuzzi

Milano correspondent

MATTHEW ZORPAS REPORTS: LONDON FASHION WEEK MENSWEAR DAY

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

today it was shows for the boys as Christopher Shannon, Topman Design, James Long and many others presented their Autumn/Winter 2012 collections.

My last day at London Fashion Week started with Christopher Shannon who presented his uber-masculine collection. Shannon took inspiration from Mathieu Kassovitz's gritty 1995 film La Haine and the dress code of youth cultures outside Britain.

Known for his sportswear inspirations, he gave us an energetic mixture of bombers, hooded parkas, checked shirts paired with multi-pocketed trousers in a lightweight wool.

For the AW12 collection Topman Design offered sharp, edgy black outfits.

The TD team took inspiration from the sensual, cultural stance of a young Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe. Long heavy lux coats in rich textured fabrics and thick wool pile were belted at the waist to create the staple silhouette.

James Long based his collection on 'The Lynchian' attitude, creating a vision of men who are amidst a surrealist cinematic dream like space. Knits and wool coats in agates, created a narrative between attraction and repulsion, seduction and fear.

Last stop was 'Ones to Watch Men' at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. The international recognised home of new talents presented four new design talents: Bodybound, Joseph Turvey, Julian Zigerli and Tobefrank.

It's all done and dusted....Saint Brewing Co. is chilling! Stay tuned for the recap.

Matthew Zorpas

London Correspondent

BRANKO POPOVIC REPORTS: VOGUE TALENTS AT INTERNATIONAL FASHION SHOWCASE 2012

Dear Filep and iDEALS,

the Italian Cultural Institute and Vogue Talents presented eight talented emerging designers including A-Lab Milano, a clothing label by the duo Alessandro Biasi and Simona Costa. The duo behind Co/Te, Tomaso Anfossi and Francesco Ferrari, Antonio Romano and Francesco Alagna of Comeforbreakfast and Milan based designer Silvio Betterelli. Caterina Gatta’s style mixes clean lines and rare vintage fabrics, while Martina Grasselli presents jewellery inspired by geometric shapes. Francesca Monaco and Salar Bicheranloo present their luxury handbag brand, Salar.  

Nicholas Julitta is a young designer with a passion for experimenting with fabrics and materials. This passion is coming through in the beautiful collection. The presented collection shows a series of garments created in collaboration with a prime Italian tannery: the same approach to matter and their trained skills got together to experiment new dying and tanning on natural and synthetic fabric.

It's about turning something synthetic into organic and "human". The clothes are handmade with a demi-couture approach. Each piece is reproduced in a limited range and made by fabrics developed in synergy with Italian leaders in manufacturing.

Text and images 

by

Branko Popovic

The Netherlands

KRISTEN MC MENAMY LAST NIGHT AT THE MC QUEEN SHOW

"A carpet of dead 

leaves, a sign of

renewal for the

second line of

Alexander McQueen..."

Read a wonderful report by Laura Bradley here.

WALTER PFEIFFER : COCKTAILS AND DREAMS

Friday, 2 March 2012 18:30 until 21:30 Thunstrasse 3 (Helvetiaplatz), 3005 Bern

Accurate Snapshots

Dear iDEALS, Walter Pfeiffer (1946/CH) approaches his paintings with unrelenting unending curiosity and openness. For the Grand Palais in Bern, he now realizes the installation "Cocktails & Dreams," featuring compositions from  various film sequences captured exclusively for the Grand Palais.

Nine projectors projecting the carefully composed and staged sequences and compress them into a shimmering, floor-length comedy.

Sound: Zigitros, www.zigitros.com Editor: Reto Schmid / Lee Swee Wei

In his own words to me:

Dear Filep, it is an installation with many movies, beautiful boys and girls , stills & landscapes ... Everything is moving. Limited for a few days but it was great fun to do it..

Love
W